Hello from NorCal

[Braaap]

Hi Everyone,

I’m Rob from NorCal and I have a 1992 K75 Low Seat model. I’ve had it for 5 years now. I love the bike and do basic work on it myself (e.g. brakes, electrical). This Summer my “to do” list includes replacing the brushes in my starter motor and a few odds and ends. Then I’ll prolly try to find a shop to do the front splines, since I’m not sure I’m quite at that level.

Nice to meet you all.

[ScooterNSticks]

Beautiful motorcycle and a fine landscape to be riding through.  Just looking at it makes me want to mount up and go for a long ride.

[Braaap]

Thank you, ScooterNSticks!

I’m missing a lot of riding right now because I want the front splines lubed before any long rides. I did the rears 5 years ago. I’m right at 60k miles so they need to be done!

I’m about 6’ but I find I enjoy the height that comes with the low seat. The seat itself, not so comfortable. I wiish I had the time and money to have a custom one made. I do like being able to slide the seat off to work on various parts of the bike. A lot of folks dislike these low seats, but overall, I’m into it.

[Laitch]

I want the front splines lubed before any long rides. I did the rears 5 years ago. I’m right at 60k miles so they need to be done!

If by front splines is meant the transmission input shaft splines that engage with the clutch disc hub, transmission input shaft splines tend to get lubed at 15K- to 40K-mile intervals depending upon the year of manufacture of the transmission and the particularity of the moto's owner.

Generally, the rear drive pinion shaft splines get lubed every 6K to 12K miles. The transmission output shaft splines and driveshaft u-joint splines that engage with each other generally don't wear rapidly because the driveshaft is coupled to the transmission output shaft by a circlip so it doesn't slide. Sliding causes increased wear of the splines.

[Braaap]

Yes, definitely the “transmission input shaft splines.”

I’m hoping I don’t have to do them myself.

[Laitch]

I’m hoping I don’t have to do them myself.

It's always nice to have an able-bodied, amusing friend along for the work, that's for sure. It is just nut-bolt-lube-torque tightening work though, no arcane calibration necessary. You want to get in and get out before onlookers tell you that you should be doing this, that and the other thing for piece of mind. You do need room to work, a couple of jacks, sawhorses and tools. Explanation of all that is on MB.C. Watch the Chris Harris video, if you haven't already. If you've got the money, you can turn the process over to a pro but that's no guarantee that the outcome will be appropriate, as this video indicates.

[billday]

Never occurred to me to leave the left footpeg plate attached to the muffler. Cool. But it's painful to see that swingarm just hanging there. As Chris would say, What the duck?

[Braaap]

I make educational videos with no formal training at doing so. It was painful for me to watch this multipart video. I wanted to download it and edit it down to the roughly 13-15 minutes of actual instruction it contains. I don’t need to hear someone bitching and moaning. I don’t need to see what food you ordered. I don’t need pointless editorializing. I just need information. Get to the information

It *was* useful but man you had to wade through a lot to get to it AND it didn’t cover removing the rear wheel, etc. instead, we got the guys take out!

Makes me want to do the job and film and edit it right so folks can get the help they need! But I, myself am ranting now. See how that works!

I still don’t know how confident I feel about disassembling so much and then putting it back together. I don’t have a fancy stand. I do have the clutch tool. It came with my bike. I do see it’s all a bolt on/off job. Which I can do and is much better than paying someone 100 an hour to do. Still, I wonder what I’d break or fuck up if I tried to do it myself!

[daveson]

You can do it.

I recon bricks are tailer made for non mechanic riders to be able to do their own maintenance. And I can't find any planned obsolescence in them.

You can edit the entertainment out of Chris's video,  it would be shorter but it wouldn't feel shorter to me.

When you have finished the job,  you will be surprised that it was much more simple than you thought it would be. 

[Laitch]

I just need information. Get to the information
It *was* useful but man you had to wade through a lot to get to it AND it didn’t cover removing the rear wheel, etc. instead, we got the guys take out!

Did you ask for your money back?

[Laitch]

Here's a driveline maintenance video for those with a lack of patience and a strong sense of entitlement.

[billday]

Did you ask for your money back?

Yeah! Demand your fuckin' money back!

[Braaap]

Thanks everyone. Sorry, I wasn’t trying to be a jerk or unkind!!

I appreciate everyone’s help!!

Yes, I can definitely see the advantage to doing this job yourself. It will definitely make you at one with your bike!

And thanks for the encouragement!

[Laitch]

I can definitely see the advantage to doing this job yourself. It will definitely make you at one with your bike!

You'll likely be at one longer with your cash, too.

Be certain to review all instructions of a procedure from beginning to end a few times. Make a tool list to the extent you can. There is abundant information here on how to improvise holding devices to stabilize the moto's frame, swingarm and transmission during this process. A fancy stand is unnecessary. I wear roofer knee pads when I need to crawl around to deal with something. A rolling stool is also convenient if where you're working is a cement or paved surface. Take photos of assemblies before you remove them. Put parts in labeled sandwich bags or into muffin tins. I use three different manuals for reference to enhance clarity if I get confounded.

Sure, you can get somebody else to do the job but as the Harris video indicates, somebody else might not get it right either; however, you'll still be buying dinner for them.