Author Topic: Restoration: 1995 K1100RS for under a grand? (Read 29458 times)

Laitch · « **Reply #50 on:** December 31, 2019, 09:18:03 AM »

Quote from: Rcgreaves on December 31, 2019, 06:54:45 AM

So my front calipers appear to have been serviced recently, shiny bolts, nearly new pads . . .
The rear master also has the look of recent service- shiny piston. Its been six months since my test ride....other than needing bobbins replaced brakes seemed fine...I guess I'll price the seal kits anyway. Best to have a service benchmark.

Can I get away with splitting the calipers without replacing sealing O-rings etc? Prior threads suggested once split, home mechanics ( that would be me..) had difficulty avoiding leaks.

If the action of the pads is smooth and positive, why split the calipers for the sake of list-making? Clean debris from between the calipers, bleed the brakes then replace the fluid at least once a year.

Trying to get away with using old seals after splitting the calipers would be a hubristic adventure.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #51 on:** December 31, 2019, 11:56:28 PM »

Busy day/night in the shop. Great day! Happy Splines!! Details later. Time for champagne.

Great way to wrap up my year. Happy New Year.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #52 on:** January 01, 2020, 07:38:04 PM »

New Year's Day 2020 had me chasing a 30mm standard wall socket when I learned that my impact style socket would not seat on the gland nut. Busting loose the gland nut turned out to be a routine affair, the outrigger legs on my box helping to keep the frame from twisting. There's a rubber ring on the rear main seal that proved to be hard and cracking in my hand. Pulling the clutch housing- the last of the four clutch components had me resorting to a puller. The o-ring on the shaft really does halt progress when VERY hard...By removing the puller after an inch of progress and tapping the housing back in, the binding o-ring becomes visible and vulnerable to ..my scalpal. perfect cutter for this. Housing slid out like "budda"

So I'm halfway done with the project, with about 99% remaining. Need a few parts, need to paint and pretty, but the upside potential is still there. Back to work tomorrow.

FlatSix · « **Reply #53 on:** January 06, 2020, 03:28:42 PM »

Ha, I used a scalpel on mine as well. I find them very handy in the garage.

Nice project.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #54 on:** January 17, 2020, 05:57:40 AM »

So what I didn’t know two weeks back was that when I handled the front calipers one of the piston faces crumbled in my hand. Just glad that didn’t happen on the road- or maybe it did? Motobins gets $103 per caliper for rebuild kits... there goes my “under a grand” project goal- I’m just not that cheap anyway... Sachs friction plate is atop my parts list. Anyone have experience with what Motobins calls a “ high quality pattern part”? I can save $40 buying Italian vs Sachs... answered my own question there😕. Anyway this Sunday the heat goes on in the shop and reassembly begins. I’ll need to save for my brake parts.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #55 on:** January 28, 2020, 06:33:08 PM »

So money is tight and despite several recommendations to go OEM on the clutch friction disk I suffer from sticker shock. Motobins offers a "pattern part" aftermarket disk that got thumbs up reviews from three in the asylum, so for $59 and $72 shipped I pulled the trigger on this lower-cost option.

The next purchase is at minimum one replacement brake piston, and most likely complete rebuild kits for the front Brembos. Motobins shipped is about $150. Where is the best offer you know of for Brembo rebuild parts?

volador · « **Reply #56 on:** January 28, 2020, 07:37:09 PM »

That's a purdy pattern there RC

Some Brembo parts kit choices

https://www.beemershop.com/category/brakes-934.html

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/2986.htm

https://www.tills.de/bmw-k75-74/bmw-k75xx-230/

billday · « **Reply #57 on:** January 29, 2020, 06:23:06 AM »

My. 02, do not rebuild just one caliper.

I did a post in the workshop a couple years ago about caliper rebuild, including parts sources. I'm too lazy to search it out for you, but you may find it useful.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #58 on:** January 29, 2020, 10:48:38 AM »

I agree entirely on caliper service. Saving my nickels....I'll search out the thread. Thanks.

Laitch · « **Reply #59 on:** January 29, 2020, 11:19:23 AM »

Quote from: billday on January 29, 2020, 06:23:06 AM

My. 02, do not rebuild just one caliper. I did a post in the workshop a couple years ago about caliper rebuild, including parts sources. I'm too lazy to search it out for you, but you may find it useful.
Quote from: Rcgreaves on January 29, 2020, 10:48:38 AM
I agree entirely on caliper service. Saving my nickels....I'll search out the thread. Thanks.

If it ain't broke, clean it; don't "fix" it. billday's post is here but it concerns 2-pot calipers not 4-pot.

4-pot caliper rebuilds differ from 2-pot rebuilds. The K1100 manual cautions not to split 4-pot calipers. Some have gone ahead and done that with varying degrees of success. The pistons and seals can be replaced in most cases without that step. Of course, thorough cleaning and flushing with brake cleaner is necessary first; however, because you're doing better than you deserve, no matter what you do it might all workout ok.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #60 on:** January 29, 2020, 11:26:59 AM »

The vote is split — to split. I’ll bear that sage caution in mind. With one piston DOA I’ll spring for the caliper kits next month. Thanks guys

Bon Jon Bovi · « **Reply #61 on:** January 29, 2020, 10:01:00 PM »

Under a grand, I'm still laughing!

billday · « **Reply #62 on:** January 29, 2020, 10:28:55 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on January 29, 2020, 11:19:23 AM

4-pot caliper rebuilds differ from 2-pot rebuilds. The K1100 manual cautions not to split 4-pot calipers. Some have gone ahead and done that with varying degrees of success.

Is 'varying degrees of success' measured by how hard you hit the wall?

Sorry for missing the distinction between 100 and 1100 Brembos.

Filmcamera · « **Reply #63 on:** January 30, 2020, 12:48:29 PM »

I have split my four pot calipers with no problem, I have never had a leak. I got the rebuild kit from beemerboneyard I think it was. It may be possible to install new pistons and seal without splitting the caliper (but it must be pretty tricky) but there is no way to replace the other small seal in the oil passageway that goes from one side of the caliper to the other without splitting them.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #64 on:** January 30, 2020, 12:51:43 PM »

Film camera- That I did not anticipate- thanks over and over. A pal services full time in his home shop. He and I will R+ R both the leaky frontbstruts and calipers- cheers

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #65 on:** February 07, 2020, 04:02:22 PM »

Lots of ways to pinch pennies but brakes when they are perfect are a wonderful thing. Just pulled trigger on Brembo 4 pot rebuild kits. Motobins $200.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #66 on:** February 07, 2020, 04:04:46 PM »

PS: Motobins site says that despite BREXIT no immediate change to EU VAT.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #67 on:** February 15, 2020, 08:37:07 PM »

Royal mail was fast this time- 4 days. Last order 15 days.

Running out of parts to buy.

brake lines check
main shaft seal
oring
caliper kits, pads
fork seals/dust caps -
fuel tank seal rebuild parts
Friction disk

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #68 on:** March 05, 2020, 08:50:18 AM »

I’m running out of reasons to procrastinate on my reassembly. Still need submersible fuel line... check out my great new hat pin. Thanks Johnny, I felt like the girl when she gets flowers, perfect gift. PS: My son just acquired an 07 R6 - what a rocket.

I’ve forgotten the fix for my inverted photos- moderator help plzz

K1300S · « **Reply #69 on:** March 05, 2020, 11:41:04 AM »

Quote from: Filmcamera on January 30, 2020, 12:48:29 PM

I have split my four pot calipers with no problem, I have never had a leak. I got the rebuild kit from beemerboneyard I think it was. It may be possible to install new pistons and seal without splitting the caliper (but it must be pretty tricky) but there is no way to replace the other small seal in the oil passageway that goes from one side of the caliper to the other without splitting them.

it is possible to install new brembo pistons and seals without splitting the caliper...and it is NOT tricky at all. just like refreshing any other caliper. did the K11RS in my shop last year. simple.

K1300S · « **Reply #70 on:** March 05, 2020, 11:48:52 AM »

Quote from: Rcgreaves on January 01, 2020, 07:38:04 PM

New Year's Day 2020 had me chasing a 30mm standard wall socket when I learned that my impact style socket would not seat on the gland nut. Busting loose the gland nut turned out to be a routine affair, the outrigger legs on my box helping to keep the frame from twisting. There's a rubber ring on the rear main seal that proved to be hard and cracking in my hand. Pulling the clutch housing- the last of the four clutch components had me resorting to a puller. The o-ring on the shaft really does halt progress when VERY hard...By removing the puller after an inch of progress and tapping the housing back in, the binding o-ring becomes visible and vulnerable to ..my scalpal. perfect cutter for this. Housing slid out like "budda"

So I'm halfway done with the project, with about 99% remaining. Need a few parts, need to paint and pretty, but the upside potential is still there. Back to work tomorrow.

when you used the puller on the clutch, was the center of the puller against the pilot bushing? your bushing looks pressed in further than it should be. as far as i could find, those bushings are NLA and they get destroyed if they are pulled out. depth is important as if they are too far in, the clutch rod end won't reach them.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #71 on:** March 05, 2020, 12:05:34 PM »

Llytle, yes and yes. I’ll do some home work on the pilot bushing. Sounds like I used an in appropriate tool and too much force. Sucks to be me.

K1300S · « **Reply #72 on:** March 05, 2020, 03:09:39 PM »

getting that clutch apart is a bitch. you would think it just pulls off, and when it doesn't...must need a puller. BUT..it is actually that stupid little oring that holds it on. unless you cut the oring out, the clutch ain't coming apart. there should be HUGE WARNING NOTES about this process in all instructions for doing the clutch.

i did the same thing you did, but caught it happening early enough that the bushing did not going very far. DOH!!!

all good at this depth.

Rcgreaves · « **Reply #73 on:** March 05, 2020, 03:39:12 PM »

Thanks as always for that image. See mine for comparison. Perhaps I’m ok? What happens if I damaged it?

K1300S · « **Reply #74 on:** March 05, 2020, 06:57:49 PM »

with the close up view, looks about the same depth as mine. it is close, but should be fine. i actually mocked up the clutch and did some measuring of the reach of the rod and it just caught enough to stay centered on mine.

you DO NOT want to screw up the bushing. they are NLA. it is not even listed in the parts fiche. i talked with techs at two dealers and they had never seen one or replaced one.

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Author Topic: Restoration: 1995 K1100RS for under a grand? (Read 29458 times)