Switches

[JPaganel]

I am planning to add some lights to my Brick, and I've been digging on information on switches.  I've been seeing over and over again how Carling Contura switches are supposed to fit.

Except that they don't. Contura switches are a bit wider and have completely different clip design from the OEM switches. OEM is single clip on each side, and Carling has these butterfly twin clips.  There is no way to use them without panel modification.

This isn't really that big of a problem, my bike is not a show queen for sure and I can cut all I want.  I am just curious why it's such a common thing to recommend Carlings. Were the OE switches some old and no longer produced style of Carling? Or is it just the nearest thing that works?

[Martin]

I ran non OEM switches for quite a few years until I got sick of the fact they don't fit the K75 dash pad due to the angled face and you also had to carve out the hole and bend the terminals. I eventually bought a mint replacement pad and bought OEM switches off Ebay and Gumtree (Craigs List). I contacted guys who were selling off surplus parts from Café builds and asked if they would just sell me a switch. I had to clean both purchased switches, and I popped out the covers with the identification and removed the incorrect markings with wet and dry.

 New self adhesive markings can be bought from Electronic/Auto supply shops. Once the stickers were applied I coated them with clear lacquer.  I also needed to fit a light for my LED light bar which was easy to do. You have to pry of the toggle and drill two holes to allow the legs of the LED to poke through to the back of the switch where you can solder on the required resistor and solder it to the terminals. It was cheaper to buy the second hand OEM switches than buy the Carling ones.
Regards Martin.

[JPaganel]

I have the K100 RT pad, I could fit a wall switch into it, if I was so inclined.

I'm just curious why Carling Contura is the recommended switch if it doesn't really fit.

[Laitch]

I'm just curious why Carling Contura is the recommended switch if it doesn't really fit.

Posts recommending it are reading comprehension and initiative tests.

[Martin]

When I got hold of my unmodified pad, which very rarely come up for sale. I went off with it to try Carling switches, and other brands. I went to a few electronic, automotive and boat places, and even tried online. I came to the conclusion the only way to get it to fit was go was 2nd hand OEM. The reason I had gone non OEM in the first place 20+ years ago was the ridiculous new and used prices they wanted for switches. Used switches at the time were also very thin on the ground. This time around they were relatively easy and cheap to purchase. I also had the same issue with OEM 22 Lt top boxes $400.00 Au plus used when I first got my Brick. Last year I picked up two really good ones complete for $100 Au and $50.00 Au. Prices seem to be coming down on used Brick parts but patience is required.
Regards Martin.

[RobP]

Patience rewards those who wait and find a used OEM switch for a good price.   I wanted an OEM switch for my add-on running lights so I paid the BMW premium price for a new switch - not exactly a good deal but it worked.  I ordered a blank 'symbol insert' at the same time.

[Martin]

Rob to remove unwanted symbols I removed the insert. I then just glued the symbol to my vice with a hot glue gun and wet and dried off the symbols followed up by Meguiars Plastix polish.  The symbol can be popped off carefully with a steel ruler and the excess glue peeled of with your finger nail. A whole sheet of self adhesive symbols can be purchased from most shops that sell the Carling switches. Once applied it is advisable to coat them with a clear coat. I used one for my light bar ad one for my fan override switch.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SET-100-ROCKER-SWITCH-PANEL-LABELS-for-12V-24V-LED-AquaTrack-Carling-Narva-ARB/311840291829?hash=item489b213bf5:g:L34AAOSwsW9Y0IXm
Regards Martin.