how do i remove the clutch arm boot?

[herseyb]

 

I have 10 (along with 9) removed, and 5 is loose and draped over part 7.

The cable is off of 7 and i am allowing it to rest against the muffler as that seems to provide an extra millimeter of space.

But there doesn't seem to be enough room to slide 6 (boot) out between the transmission and the clutch arm, and the boot doesn't want to budge regardless!

Any tips for getting this off? :dunno

[Laitch]

Remove the muffler. Soak the boot seam with WD40 then try working it loose. It might rip anyway if it's an old one.

[herseyb]

perfect! 

Except my muffler bolt is a rusty mess.   I sprayed it with wd40 and am letting it soak, but it just has that "I'm gonna need a torch" look to it.

 

[Laitch]

I sprayed it with wd40 and am letting it soak, but it just has that "I'm gonna need a torch" look to it.

Probably will. Scrub it with a wire brush and knock its head a few times too. I heat them first, spray them with Liquid Wrench to lend an industrial ambiance to the air quality, beat on them a couple of times then get back to them after a while with a wrench.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Liquid Wrench not WD40.  WD40 doesn't work anywhere as well.  A little goes a long way, a can of Liquid Wrench will last you 20+ years.  Mine goes back to 1985. 

[herseyb]

PB blaster and a new impact driver got it off licket split turned out!  boot is malformed now where it interfaces with clutch arm.

My guess is clutch cable was too loose.  If I am at the end of my travel on the handlebar adjustment screw do I need to adjust the screw/nut that the clutch arm operates?

Or are those independent?  Not sure what comes next if I can't tighten more slack out of my cable, but the new boot is still in NH.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Are you following the correct clutch adjustment procedure?   If yes, and the clutch lever adjuster is all the way out, you need a new clutch cable.  Trying to make do by messing with the screw that pushes on the clutch rod will result in a slipping clutch friction disc. 

[herseyb]

Maybe I am not.  At the end of last season I noticed I could set the 3" space right, but would not get the free play at the lever.

I think this means it was time to adjust the screw/stopnot.

My question now that it is all apart is: in what order do I bring the gaps to spec?

Should I do the 3" play, then screw in the adjusting bolt until it feels something, and then test for free play at the lever?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Yes.

But one note:  When you are done, pull the clutch in and let it snap, listening for a clank when the arm hits the muffler.  It may be necessary to adjust for a tiny bit less than 3".  This is because in some cases, the arm will lightly rest on the muffler at 3" on the K75.  This will result in an annoying metallic rattle when riding.  Took me an entire summer to find this out.

[herseyb]

Awesome.  I think the new boot comes today.   

[blackie1]