Author Topic: How to monster a brick, instead of cafe it.  (Read 9615 times)

Offline daveson

  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1027
Re: How to monster a brick, instead of cafe it.
« Reply #25 on: April 20, 2019, 08:51:32 PM »
You could be onto something there. When I look in the riders handbook, early models (don't have the later book,  though my bike is)  220 is close to redline in fifth,  150 is close to redline in third,  but 50 isn't close to anything on the graph.

I spose I'll put it back into the file of "Things I know I shouldn't wonder about but do"

I spose I'd have more replies if I made a separate thread on it, but then I'd have to take it back out of the file that I shouldn't even be looking at.
  • Victoria, Australia
  • Current;'85 K100RT~100,000km; four other bricks. Past; 1500 Vulcan, V Star 650, KLX 250(dirt bike) TT250(dirt bike)

Offline daveson

  • ^ Quintessential Motobricker
  • Posts: 1027
Re: How to monster a brick, instead of cafe it.
« Reply #26 on: April 21, 2019, 05:09:05 PM »
I'm probably wrong, but I think those marks are the range of maximum speeds at red line in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear.


Continuing on from this idea,  and the riders handbook,  maybe third is the ideal gear between 50-150, fifth ideal between 150-220, and fourth used momentarily in between, for racing?

I've never raced and don't know if this is plausible.

Edit,  OK I've just read a thread that they could be calibration marks. The speedo may be checked for accuracy at different frequencies to fall within the extra lines
  • Victoria, Australia
  • Current;'85 K100RT~100,000km; four other bricks. Past; 1500 Vulcan, V Star 650, KLX 250(dirt bike) TT250(dirt bike)

Tags: