Author Topic: The jiigan 1985K100 RS Thread (Read 14800 times)

The Mighty Gryphon · « **Reply #25 on:** January 20, 2019, 12:40:33 PM »

Quote from: Laitch on January 20, 2019, 12:29:23 PM

Describe exactly the colors of each wire and which wires are joined together at each plug terminal. The dirty condition of the wires in the photo doesn't aid in their identification on a schematic.

C'mon, Laitch, that's what makes this so much fun. Use your creativity.

Martin · « **Reply #26 on:** January 20, 2019, 04:10:47 PM »

Duhh :idea2: it goes to the Flux capacitor. He has hit the switch and gone back in time, that's why he is not answering. He is currently being chased by Velociraptors and once safe he'll answer. :sip:
Regards Martin.

natalena · « **Reply #27 on:** January 20, 2019, 07:00:53 PM »

Quote from: Martin on January 20, 2019, 04:10:47 PM

Duhh :idea2: it goes to the Flux capacitor. He has hit the switch and gone back in time, that's why he is not answering. He is currently being chased by Velociraptors and once safe he'll answer. :sip:
Regards Martin.

Or, he could be minutes into the future, reading these posts, and thinking "I really stepped in it this time." I think it's a "gift" from the engineers who designed the brick, many of whom spent their later years designing wee-toys with intricate bits for Kinder Eggs.

K1300S · « **Reply #28 on:** January 21, 2019, 08:11:43 AM »

LOL...with the references to "Back to the Future" here....I just saw a DeLorean sitting in the "for sale" lot at a local Army Post. soo tempting to put a spare blender on the roof...

BryanD · « **Reply #29 on:** March 08, 2019, 09:07:00 PM »

Every time someone says "Cafe Build", my bike is instantly worth more! :)

alabrew · « **Reply #30 on:** March 09, 2019, 03:15:29 PM »

Anyone know anything about that aftermarket windshield deflector? Is it effective?

mw074 · « **Reply #31 on:** March 09, 2019, 03:50:18 PM »

The Laminar Lip is very effective if you have helmet buffeting issues. Also inexpensive. I have had a couple and they work.

Nine80seven · « **Reply #32 on:** March 21, 2019, 07:21:25 PM »

Looks like you got a rather rare Fox Twin Clicker shock. NLA. But rebuildable. Nice. Adjustable compression and rebound.

natalena · « **Reply #33 on:** March 21, 2019, 08:29:01 PM »

The "AGIP" sticker is super cool ... can't argue with a 6 legged dog breathing fire :)

jiigan · « **Reply #34 on:** March 29, 2019, 02:27:35 PM »

Hey guys,
Still working on the bike. I bought some vortex strap-ons and need to buy a new throttle assembly. Will this one from domino work? Also would i be able to use oem throttle cables or do I need to buy new ones.Thanks in advance for the insight.

https://cafe4racer.eu/en/throttle-control-for-cafe-racer-scrambler-brat-tracker-sport-motorcycle/1044-domino-throttle-control-22mm-vintage-cod-133503.html

Also a couple pics of the engine aftere hours of cleaning. I figured out that wd40 and a wire brush on drill is the only way to go.

jiigan · « **Reply #35 on:** March 29, 2019, 03:42:52 PM »

Stupid iphone... vortex strap-ons... hate auto correct

jiigan · « **Reply #36 on:** March 29, 2019, 04:32:56 PM »

Quote from: johnny on March 29, 2019, 04:18:07 PM

greetings...

more than one vortex... what is the outside diameter of the tube...

j o

The tube is 22mm, i think it will physically fit. I am curious about the throttle cable setup thouh.

johnny · « **Reply #37 on:** March 29, 2019, 05:04:37 PM »

greetings...

oe is 1 cable... your link is for 2 cable...

when folks axe these kinda questions i gotts to wonder if you gotts a manual or have even eyeballed whats you gotts there...

the moes here can answer mostly any oe questions... butts when you crafting a unique build you are mostly on your own especially when you dont poast photos and specs...

will the domino work... i can make it work... proally not as the maker intended... proally be whack... butts it will work...

j o

Laitch · « **Reply #38 on:** March 29, 2019, 09:09:00 PM »

Be aware that with Domino/Tomaselli products, 22mm can often mean 22.2mm, not 22.0mm, so aftermarket controls mounted on a BMW bar are likely to be loose until shimmed.

jiigan · « **Reply #39 on:** March 29, 2019, 09:34:20 PM »

Quote from: johnny on March 29, 2019, 05:04:37 PM

greetings...

oe is 1 cable... your link is for 2 cable...

when folks axe these kinda questions i gotts to wonder if you gotts a manual or have even eyeballed whats you gotts there...

the moes here can answer mostly any oe questions... butts when you crafting a unique build you are mostly on your own especially when you dont poast photos and specs...

will the domino work... i can make it work... proally not as the maker intended... proally be whack... butts it will work...

j o

You are right, stupid question. Just looked at the old throttle tube that I took off.

jiigan · « **Reply #40 on:** July 29, 2019, 12:23:35 AM »

Hey guys,
I am still working on the cafe race build and have removed the clutch cable. Now there seems to be oil leaking from between the rubber boot gasket and the clutch lever at the rear of the engine. It looks like when I removed the tension the lever separated from the rubber boot, it will go in freely but there is oil that leaked out. Can anyone please elaborate?

Thank you in advance.

rbm · « **Reply #41 on:** July 29, 2019, 06:20:12 AM »

Yes, that's normal. It's gear oil that bathes the clutch pushrod, which seeps past the thrust bearing.

Too bad that you didn't support the actuator arm when you removed the clutch cable as required. The spring inside the boot is too strong for the rubber material and the boot tears. You'll have to replace that part now and its not cheap.

John Lang · « **Reply #42 on:** July 29, 2019, 06:23:36 AM »

Watch this video by Chris Harris from the 4:00 minute mark.

jiigan · « **Reply #43 on:** July 29, 2019, 09:53:45 AM »

Quote from: rbm on July 29, 2019, 06:20:12 AM

Yes, that's normal. It's gear oil that bathes the clutch pushrod, which seeps past the thrust bearing.

Too bad that you didn't support the actuator arm when you removed the clutch cable as required. The spring inside the boot is too strong for the rubber material and the boot tears. You'll have to replace that part now and its not cheap.

Thanks for the heads up, do you mean replace just the rubber boot? I ordered one just in case but it didn't look like the old one had any tares. When I install it, do I have to squirt any oil in there or just replace the boot?

Thanks

jiigan · « **Reply #44 on:** July 29, 2019, 09:54:23 AM »

Quote from: John Lang on July 29, 2019, 06:23:36 AM

Watch this video by Chris Harris from the 4:00 minute mark.

Thank you!

rbm · « **Reply #45 on:** July 29, 2019, 01:02:29 PM »

Quote from: jiigan on July 29, 2019, 09:53:45 AM

Thanks for the heads up, do you mean replace just the rubber boot? I ordered one just in case but it didn't look like the old one had any tares. When I install it, do I have to squirt any oil in there or just replace the boot?

Thanks

Just replace the boot. But do it just as you are assembling for the final time. You don't want to make this mistake twice. If you really have to install it, then make sure to lash the actuator arm to the case of the transmission with binding wire so that it applies slight pressure to the clutch rod. That way, the arm is taking the spring pressure and not the rubber boot.

No need to oil upon assembly.

jiigan · « **Reply #46 on:** July 30, 2019, 02:10:35 AM »

Quote from: rbm on July 29, 2019, 01:02:29 PM

Just replace the boot. But do it just as you are assembling for the final time. You don't want to make this mistake twice. If you really have to install it, then make sure to lash the actuator arm to the case of the transmission with binding wire so that it applies slight pressure to the clutch rod. That way, the arm is taking the spring pressure and not the rubber boot.

No need to oil upon assembly.

Thank you :)

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Author Topic: The jiigan 1985K100 RS Thread (Read 14800 times)