K75S brake issues

[szabgab]

I recommended that check because bearing failure within the final drive can generate heat, so good luck is still in your corner.

I rode for half an hour at eighty miles an hour in 31ºF temperature to have a slice of zucchini bread at the end of the trail. When I parked, I laid my hand on the rear rotor. It wasn't quite as warm as a baby bunny. Hope that helps!

Wait,  wait,  a cooked baby bunny or just a plain,  living one?  :)

[szabgab]

I checked my final drive the other day after a quick ride to coffee with the boys.  It was about the same temperature as a bowl of chili after it's been cooling for five minutes.

Brilliant,  so at least I know,  the FD should be OK (especially that I have opted for the DS only from rcgreaves,  as finances are crap at the moment)

[Billk]

Try this
Use a magic marker
Put a line across the rotor as shown
Spin the wheel by hand
See how it wears
Then again take it for a ride
See how it wears

[Billk]

I also have a heat gun if you want to compare how
hot certain parts of your  bike gets. Of course, you
would have too have one also.

[szabgab]

Try this
Use a magic marker
Put a line across the rotor as shown
Spin the wheel by hand
See how it wears
Then again take it for a ride
See how it wears

Yes,  a heat gun would be brill for stuff like this or to check,  how hot the different cylinders get.

The sharpie test is for what exactly?  To see an uneven wear,  if there is any?

Thank you,

Gabriel

[Billk]

Yes, to see uneven wear.

[szabgab]

Yes, to see uneven wear.

Great stuff, I will try that. Especially that the wheel starts to bind a bit more again, so probably there was some minuscule debris left behind somehow and now it is making it's way back to the mc (although I could have sweared, everything is pristine, once finished)... The front squeal is back occasionally too, so I guess it is like Laitch said, those spiffy pads are whining for my attention :)

[Billk]

 You said that you can lock up the rear brakes. I think that that’s very unusual for these bikes, but I may be wrong. I know that I cannot do that with my bike, the rear brakes. Are there more people out here that can lock up the rear brakes. I’ve read that they are very weak in terms of breaking

[Martin]

Running a sharpie track in the middle of the disc full circumference might be more useful. It might show up any high spots. BMW originally supplied different compounds for front and rear brakes. I believe this was to counter the chance of lock up. I haven't tried it recently but I used to be able to lock up the rears.

Regards Martin.

[szabgab]

You said that you can lock up the rear brakes. I think that that’s very unusual for these bikes, but I may be wrong. I know that I cannot do that with my bike, the rear brakes. Are there more people out here that can lock up the rear brakes. I’ve read that they are very weak in terms of breaking

The rear is easy to lock up on mine at the moment. So is the front, but I have done it only once for a millisecond and that was just about enough as an experience :)

[Laitch]

You said that you can lock up the rear brakes. I think that that’s very unusual for these bikes, but I may be wrong. I know that I cannot do that with my bike, the rear brakes.

What do you mean by "lock up?" Under what conditions have you tried to lock them up? What happens when you try? My moto's rear tire will skid or bounce with enough lever pressure, depending upon the road surface and speed.

[szabgab]

What do you mean by "lock up?" Under what conditions have you tried to lock them up? What happens when you try? My moto's rear tire will skid or bounce with enough lever pressure, depending upon the road surface and speed.

I suppose skid is a better description, in my reading wheel locks, when it stops spinning and skids as long as I have the pedal pushed down the same forceful way (or the bike itself stops, hopefully not on it's side :) )

[szabgab]

Running a sharpie track in the middle of the disc full circumference might be more useful. It might show up any high spots. BMW originally supplied different compounds for front and rear brakes. I believe this was to counter the chance of lock up. I haven't tried it recently but I used to be able to lock up the rears.

Regards Martin.

OK, I did this and the one across the rotor, basically an elongated cross. The inside pad (that is closer to the wheel) is the one, that is dragging, the outside did not touch the sharpie marks. Also from the crosshatch marks I can see, that the guilty pad is dragging on the bottom part of the rotor (nearer the bolts, if you were) and not on the top. Any idea on this? The pad is straight, not worn sideways

[Gabriel70]

Hi

When you replaced the rear wheel, did you remember to install the spacer between the rear disc and wheel?

[szabgab]

Hi

When you replaced the rear wheel, did you remember to install the spacer between the rear disc and wheel?

Hi Gabriel,  yes, the spacer is installed
,  although that should not affect the position of the rotor to the pads...

[Rcgreaves]

Catching up on the Hungarian K-escapades....Happy New Year my friend. 

[szabgab]

Catching up on the Hungarian K-escapades....Happy New Year my friend.

Oh, there are no escapades at the moment, poor bike is sitting outside in the cold and is waiting for it's turn to be used again :)

Clayton, thanks for the wishes, Happy New Year and a belated merry Christmas to you too and to all our fellow motobrickers!

Gab

[Adam M]

Late to this party, but remember my experience with ceramic pads and they are hard and prone to squeal.
Personally I prefer softer pads.
Did you disassemble your rear master ?
Did you try to poke a small hole inside to make sure is unblocked as RBM suggested ?

[szabgab]

Late to this party, but remember my experience with ceramic pads and they are hard and prone to squeal.
Personally I prefer softer pads.
Did you disassemble your rear master ?
Did you try to poke a small hole inside to make sure is unblocked as RBM suggested ?

Hi, don't worry, my brakes are playing up still, I just moved on to other things for now.

I am not sure, if ceramic pads in general, blue Brembos or my set in particular is really bad at stopping the bike whilst wet, but these are. Actually I have to lean on the front lever pretty hard for it to stop the bike the same way, as a two-finger operation would, whilst dry. I have just noticed with the dried on salty road grime on the rotors, that right side caliper works unevenly, as the outside of the rotor is nice and shiny, the inside is shiny in the central part, but fully dull and dirty on the outside parts, where the pads should have cleaned them.

Rear MC wise - I have cleaned the cylinder as well as I could poking things through holes and checking for cleanliness, but I must have done a bad job, as the rear brake is just as sticky, as it was before...

[K1300S]

You said that you can lock up the rear brakes. I think that that’s very unusual for these bikes, but I may be wrong. I know that I cannot do that with my bike, the rear brakes. Are there more people out here that can lock up the rear brakes. I’ve read that they are very weak in terms of breaking

if you CAN'T lock up the front or rear brakes you have a problem....