K75 is driving me crazy

[Gr-Racing]

I take a step foward and 2 back it is really testing me and im failing lol.
I try to crank the bike and it tryes to go but its like is not getting power, the battery voltage is at 13.5 before i try to crank and after it goes down to 8 and 9 but dosent do a full revolution on the crank up, i thought it was the brushes on the starter got the kit change all the parts except the bearing I could not get it off but it still had free sping with not alot of drag and nada.

Im thinking is a short in the wiring



Ps also my head light is not working only flash to pass , was thinking to switch to a external on / off switch


Just venting on here i know is extremely difficult to pin point a electrical problem over the internet

[Martin]

What happens if you remove the power lead to the starter and supply power to the starter direct from a battery.
Regards Martin

[Gr-Racing]

I will give it a try in a few

[Laitch]

I try to crank the bike and it tryes to go but its like is not getting power, the battery voltage is at 13.5 before i try to crank and after it goes down to 8 and 9 . . .

i know is extremely difficult to pin point a electrical problem over the internet

Does the battery's resting voltage return to 13.5 after the starting attempt?
Electrical problems can be tricky to solve but they are solved here on a regular basis. Have you search for repair of headlight switch on the site?

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Laitch is correct in asking about the voltage immediately after trying to start.  A freshly "charged" battery will have over13 volts of what is called "Surface Charge".  This is caused by a thin layer of electrons on the outer surface of the battery plates.  While this can make it look like the battery has a full charge on it, in reality this surface charge holds almost no power.  It is the reason why the proper way to test a battery is with a load like a headlight.  The modern digital voltmeters don't draw enough current to remove the surface charge to show the actual charge in the battery.  Even a bad battery can look good if it isn't loaded.

[wally.fisher]

Check n clean ALL
 the ground connections you can find as well as those under the tank.


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[stokester]

By your description the battery voltage drops to a level that is too low to turn the starter.  Is the voltage reading of 8-9 volts while attempting to crank or after?

This can mean a couple of things:
1) your battery is weak and is unable to hold the voltage under the starter load
2) there is excessive resistance in the starter circuit

As Gryph and Laitch mentioned, checking the voltage of a battery after a fresh charge proves very little.  You must do a load test which will remove the surface charge and provide a load to give an accurate state-of-health.

This would be my first test and if the battery tests good, take wally.fisher's advice and start to check ground and wiring connections.

[Doodaadog]

Hi Gr
I had the exact same problem......tried everything including all the things everyone else suggested on this forum.....but still no luck.....mine was ok then went intermittent.....then stopped altogether.

I have tried everything and this beat me...cannot get to the ‘why’

My fix was to buy a ‘momentary’ switch, fused it on the live....and attached directly to the battery...it is ‘switched’ across the ground......mounted it into the power accessory point on the LHS next to the coil feeds.....so mine has a secret starter!

Not perfect as I would rather find out what’s wrong...but I can start and run the bike.

[Martin]

I have a multimeter that registers the Min Max voltage on startup. 8-9v is too low 10v is what it should be. Check and clean all your starter related connections.  Have your battery load tested, it's normally free but try to observe the test.
Regards Martin.