Author Topic: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack  (Read 42238 times)

Offline oneplustwo

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Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« on: April 29, 2018, 01:04:41 PM »
Hi all,


First post here!  I just picked up a K75 that I'm planning to modify into something minimalistic.  Not sure it will be a cafe racer per se, but in that direction anyway.  I've attached a few pics so you can see the general condition.


It's not running at the moment although it was when it was put away a couple years ago.  It has about 40K miles on it and seems to be in pretty good shape.  It might just need a fresh battery and that's it, but I haven't taken any steps yet as I wanted to get this community's input first.


So... here are my questions.


1. Any recommendations for the smallest battery I can get away with?  Since I'm trying to be minimalist and may relocate, I'd like the smallest one I can get that will still do a good job of firing her up.
2. Beyond the following, any must do items?
  - Change oil
  - Change coolant
  - Lube splines
  - Replace brake fluid
3. Anything to add in the "if needed" category below?
  - Injectors (perhaps move to 4 hole version).  The bike doesn't have a lot of milage but for age and for how long it's sat, perhaps I'll need new ones?
  - Fork oil
  - Spark plugs and wires
  - Shims for valves
  - Radiator hoses and other rubber lines
4. Is there a single go-to source for K75 parts?  Or is it a matter of google searching your way to what you need?


Thanks in advance for any input!


  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline moto949

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2018, 02:22:56 PM »
Hi,
I got my own first k75S about three years ago and I've learned a lot.
---Yes, get the valves set before you do any tuning.
---Check all rubber hoses for leaks and dry rot - better yet, replace them all if possible. The famous S hose, especially. I should've replaced the rubber manifolds under the throttle bodies (because the idle changed when I sprayed starter fluid on them - have a fire extinguisher ready trying this leak test!) but I got cheap and lazy and just sprayed them with Permatex rubber anti-leak spray - leak problem solved.
---Make sure the plugs and wires are correct. Stock wires are resistor. Stock plugs are NOT (no 'R' in their code). Don't use resistor plugs with resistor wires. Beemer Boneyard will sell you the correct pairing.
---Feel lucky if your inner gas tank isn't corroded. The metal brackets and fuel gauge stuff rusts and causes a real situation. Clean the tank with vinegar and seal it with fuel tank sealer because these tanks are known to get pin hole leaks even though they're alloy. If needed, Ebay fuel pumps work well for under $40 but make sure they include the fuel resistant rubber pump holder - don't use something like electric tape or it'll be eaten by the fuel. Replace all fuell hoses and clamps.
---I use the four hole injectors and have tried them back to back with freshly cleaned (Mr. Injector) stock pieces. The 4 pins are better - quicker, better response, better mileage. But they raised my idle to 1300rpm and I can't get it lower - no biggie.
---Learn the "lean drop" method of fine tuning the injection by turning the allen in the little hole plugged up atop the air box (lift the tank and slide it back a bit - the plug is in the front  right top of the airbox).
---Get the throttles sync'ed (I use the Motion Pro tool) .
---NEVER turn those screws on the injection linkage that have dabs of blue paint.
---I advanced the ignition to what I guess was a couple degrees ( I loosened the advance screws under the lower engine's front panel, turned the housing a bit, rode it and repeated sequence up to the point it pinged, then backed it off. DO NOT let your motor ping doing this - serious damage! Done right, this is a solid performance improvement.
--- I just put Engine Ice in my K1 - works good so far. Whatever coolant you use, make sure it's compatible with your bike.
--- Spline lubing is the biggest maintenance topic around here. Do it right, please. If your downshifts are sticky, that's one sign the complicated front splines need lubing, but they might need it anyway and last about 20k miles. The back ones are relatively easy and should be done with every tire change. Read up on this!
---Brake fluid - use DOT 4 only.
---I've read up on the oils and have concluded; Mobil 1 for the motor is fine, and any other more expensive oil will give no noticeable improvement. Gearbox oil is another matter; I used Royal Purple synthetic 75w-90 in my K75 and it improved whatever the previous owner's dealer used - better shifting for sure. But in my newly acquired K1, I just switched to Liqui Moly 75w-140 - even better! The K75 gets moly next. In the final drive I read it's best not to use synthetics, just go with o.e.m. recommendations. And NEVER use any moly stuff in the motor - it will screw up your starter sprag because it's so slippery. You'll be left without a starter and lots of trouble getting the moly out again.
--- Fork oil - first, make sure you know what fork you have. Earlier K75 forks take less oil. When I first got my K75, the front was bouncing and diving way too much. I drained the oil and carefully measured what came out of each leg. The P.O.'s dealer put in the exact correct amount... but for the EARLIER bikes, not my '93! BTW, I refilled them correctly with 7wt (stock is 5wt) , and it was better than before because of the level, but it kinda felt like it was 'choking' as if the rebound and compression circuits couldn't handle the thicker oil - and I'm 225 lbs. Next change I'm using 5wt. If I need to tame any fork dive, I'll add oil a tablespoon at a time (as told to me by a renowned suspension expert).
---If you're looking for a lightweight battery and you want to go with lithium (two pounds or less), be very careful. Do research. I used one in my Suzuki racebike and if it wasn't almost fully charge during down time, it drained to nothing and never came back. Don't believe the claims about them coming back from only one volt, just google lithium complaints. However... Battery Tender company, which sold an earlier lithium battery which they've since halted, has on their website a new battery about to be announced as I write this. I'm watching for it 'cause my K1 needs to drop a few pounds and I trust them more than others.
Good Luck!
  • florida usa
  • 1993 k75s
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Offline Chaos

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2018, 02:49:41 PM »
random thoughts.....drain any old gas before you do anything!  Flush brake lines thoroughly, hopefully all is good shape, replacing them with ss is a good idea. Any oil is better than no or old oil. A can or rinsoline or some motor flush might be a good idea to keep the sprague clutch happy.  Beware of that drain bolt for the forks, it strips if you look at it cross-eyed.  Seriously!  At 40k your splines should be good, and cafe type modded bikes rarely accumulate enough mileage to worry about them wearing any more.  Oh, almost forgot, nice shock!!
  • sw ohio
1987 K75S    VIN 0231
Original owner, Original litter
200,000 miles (plus or minus) and 5 paint jobs
sold 6/23
2023 Ural 2WD sidecar (BMW's bastard step child)

Offline stokester

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2018, 04:20:20 PM »
All of the previous suggestions are on my list plus one.


As one who has replaced two clutch cables on the road: check, clean and lube the clutch lever end of the cable.  If there is any sign of stress on the strands, replace it.
  • Yorktown Virginia
  • '94 K75S Dakar Yellow - '93 K75S Seiden Blau - '91 R100RT Bermuda Blue- '78 R100S Smoke Red

Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2018, 05:58:43 PM »
Wow, this is all great input!  Really appreciate all the insight.


I got a bit done on the bike yesterday. 


Here are some photos.


  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2018, 07:42:16 PM »
Go out and get a jug of S-100 motorcycle cleaner.  Strip the bike as far as you can and spray it with the S-100, scrub with a big sponge and rinse.  Repeat a few more times.  You will now have the bike almost, if not, showroom clean.  It will be a lot nicer to work on.
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2018, 11:53:30 PM »
On the way from Amazon!  Thanks for the tip.


I'll be spending more time stripping the bike down tonight.  I still can't figure out how to get the MAF cable disconnected so that might be the one task for today.


On the wiring, I'm planning on either an m.unit or BEP 3.0 or similar.  Also, I'm planning to change the controls.  Any general advice to consider as I continue tearing down the wiring to bare frame?
  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2018, 03:03:35 AM »
Got a fair amount done tonight after the kids went to bed.  A few photo updates plus a few questions.


First the questions.


1. Is this the dreaded S-hose that goes bad?  Mine basically fell apart with a slight tug.  It goes from the air box to the crank case.  I think I've seen others just put a small cone filter on the end of it.


2. Here are photos of the splines.  Looks rusty and I would bet they've never been lubed.  The bike has 40K miles on it and they don't look terrible.  I would just lube and go.  Agree?





3. Should I replace this boot?  It looks ok and I don't know that it's a critical piece.

4. Is the drive shaft supposed to come out of the transmission on it's own?  After I took off the swing arm, I couldn't get the drive shaft to release from the tranny.  Not sure if there's a retainer on the end or something?  My next step is to take the tranny off the engine so I guess I'll see once I get there.  But thought some insight would be helpful.
5. I can't figure out how to get the clamps off the connectors from the intake manifold to the air box.  I was going to mess around with them with pliers but I didn't want to damage them.  Although I guess they are easily replaced with standard hose clamps.  Any advice would be welcome.
6. Similarly, I couldn't figure out how to get the fuel rail off the injectors.  Do I just pull hard?  I was afraid of breaking an injector.  Although I might replace those anyway too.
7. Does it matter which radiator hose kit I get?  I saw some silicone ones on eBay for $36 but they don't have black.  I saw some from the UK but they were super pricey.  Didn't see any on beemerboneyard.com.  Any other sources to check?


And here are just a few in process shots:
The two halves separated!  There were more wires and cables tying the two together than I had thought.



I may go from this elbow to the MAF and then a cone filter.  But I'm also toying with the idea of fabricating some individual runners to the MAF like boxermann did.  Might be beyond my skill set but I love the look.


  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline The Mighty Gryphon

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2018, 07:50:33 AM »
Splines show some wear.  Should be okay for a cafe bike if you keep them lubed
  • In my garage in Marilla, NY
  • '91K100RS White/Blue
Current:
'91 K100RS16V "Moby Brick Too"

Past:
'94 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
'92 K100RS16V "Moby Brick" (RIP, deceased in a vehicular assault)
'94 K75S Special Edition Dakar Yellow "Cheetos"
'89 K100RS Special Edition "Special Ed"

Offline moto949

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2018, 10:35:56 PM »
Yes, if your 'S' hose fell apart that easily, I'd guess the rest of your hoses could be equally brittle. I'd replace them with BMW pieces where needed, and local auto parts for the rest. So many people have learned the hard way how temperamental early K bike injection can be. Air leaks are the enemy. Hoses sometimes look good, but they can fool you by being old and porous. Do your preventative maintenance  correctly from the start and your K will run very well and you'll be out there enjoying rides instead of having a bike that runs poorly, making you chase problems all season.
  • florida usa
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Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2018, 12:59:24 AM »
Sorry, realized the formatting of my post wasn't conducive to easy reading.  Here are the questions that were buried (plus updates):



4. Is the drive shaft supposed to come out of the transmission on it's own?  After I took off the swing arm, I couldn't get the drive shaft to release from the tranny.  Not sure if there's a retainer on the end or something?  My next step is to take the tranny off the engine so I guess I'll see once I get there.  But thought some insight would be helpful. (I found the answer to this but still haven't been successful. My channel lock grip needs work I guess.  I will eat some wheaties and try again.  Or I might need to buy a pair of vice grips that will fit over the drive shaft.)
5. I can't figure out how to get the clamps off the connectors from the intake manifold to the air box.  I was going to mess around with them with pliers but I didn't want to damage them.  Although I guess they are easily replaced with standard hose clamps.  Any advice would be welcome. (Also found the answer to this... those clamps are disposable!?  Follow up question though... it it ok to just replace with standard worm gear hose clamps?)
6. Similarly, I couldn't figure out how to get the fuel rail off the injectors.  Do I just pull hard?  I was afraid of breaking an injector.  Although I might replace those anyway too. (Struggling with this one.  Afraid of breaking one off in the head.  But slow and steady wins the race!)
7. Does it matter which radiator hose kit I get?  I saw some silicone ones on eBay for $36 but they don't have black.  I saw some from the UK but they were super pricey.  Didn't see any on beemerboneyard.com.  Any other sources to check?

  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline rbm

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #11 on: May 06, 2018, 08:01:26 AM »
4. Or remove the drive shat housing from the gearbox and that will expose the end of the drive shaft.  You can then remove the shaft from the gearbox splines.

5. No, you can't use standard worm gear clamps available at hardware stores. Purchase some 48mm Suzuki band clamps, part number   09402-48208 

6. The injectors will stick to the rail because of the O-rings.  Remove the retaining clips and pull the rail away from the engine inline with the injectors.

7. Shouldn't matter which hose kit you get.  It's rare that the water hoses go bad anyways (in my experience).
  • Regards, Robert
Toronto, Ontario

1987 K75 - Build Blog @http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/

Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2018, 01:15:21 PM »
Hmm, not sure what drive shaft housing means?  Does that mean to open up the transmission from the opposite side?


Thanks for the heads up on the Suzuki clamps.  I'm still debating on whether I can manage to fabricate individual runners directly to the MAF.  Regardless, I'll need to find a way to connect the runners to the throttle bodies so those clamps may be necessary anyway.


Will WD-40 or some other solvent help loosen up the injector o-rings from the rail and block?  I think I'm going to get new 4 hole injectors anyway but it would be nice not to break anything.


Thanks for the insight on the hoses.  Mine look ok actually so based on that plus your input, I can save some money by not replacing those.  Plus, they're easy to access so I can always do it later.


Three new questions...


1. I've bit the bullet and ordered the m.unit blue and associated pieces.  So there will be some wiring in my future.  My wiring harness seems to be in reasonable shape.  But is there anything in the wiring that I should be paying close attention to or proactively replace?
2. I'm going to ditch the center stand somehow.  I was reading that some have moved to a right side stand to prevent the oil burning issue with the bike leaned over toward the head side.  But I didn't know if that was an issue with all K-bikes or only earlier years?  Might be fun to fabricate a new one but wanted to weigh the pros/cons in an informed way.
3. What do people do with all the parts they don't use?  Are they basically garbage?  Or is there demand for things like fairing pieces, the lunchbox gauge assembly, etc.


Also, this is starting to be more of a custom build thread.  Would the moderator be able to move to that forum for me?


Thanks all!

  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline rbm

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2018, 01:33:54 PM »
Ok, I should have looked more holistically at your pictures.  You've removed the drive shaft housing in picture 3.  If the drive shaft is affixed to the gearbox and seems like it won't release, then grab its end with a pair of Vicegrips, and give the Vicegrips a good solid WHACK! with a hammer.  That will release the drive shaft.

Yes that boot in picture 3 is critical and should not be compromised, with splits or cracks.  I've heard said that if it does have a split then using RTV or similar will seal the crack.  I'd look out for a new one personally.  That area of the bike gets all the road grime and if that stuff migrates to your seals or splines, the damage is expensive.  Better to replace a $40.00 boot.
  • Regards, Robert
Toronto, Ontario

1987 K75 - Build Blog @http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/

Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #14 on: May 07, 2018, 12:23:20 PM »
Bigger vicegrips ordered and on the way.  In the meantime, I also picked up some eBay grips, levers, injectors, and clip ons.  The pricing for some of this stuff is incredibly low.  So I'm a little wary of quality but we'll see how the look when they arrive.


 


 
  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #15 on: May 09, 2018, 08:38:57 PM »

Big vice grips, some rubber sheet, and a whack with a hammer did the trick to remove the drive shaft.  Splines look and and the lube was still good.  I assume I just whack it back on?  I'll lube the splines again (using Belray assembly with molylube solids). I will not lube the u-joint as well based on what my search has revealed.  Let me know if that thinking has changed.I also got the air box, fuel rail, and injectors out.  They look terrible so I'm glad I bought new ones.  I would imagine they can be refurbished just fine, but for the price of the Ebay ones plus the potential "upgrade" to 4-hole means I'll probably just keep them as spares for now.One other question... I can't figure out how to access the allen bolts that hold the throttle bodies in place.  It seems the "choke" assembly is in the way and I can't see a way to remove it.  Maybe I just need to look harder.  Or maybe I'll just leave it on there for now.  Any insight?



  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline Laitch

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #16 on: May 09, 2018, 09:42:14 PM »
I can't figure out . . .  Maybe I just need to look harder.  Or maybe I'll just leave it on there for now.  Any insight?
Can you give some insight about why you don't use manuals to help you, or are you using some but need more clarity? Haynes is a good one online. Clymer's you'll likely need to purchase. The BMW manual here is ok but missing some chapters.
  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
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Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #17 on: May 09, 2018, 10:14:43 PM »
Fair question.  I'll do some searching for those.
  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #18 on: May 18, 2018, 12:22:05 PM »
I read somewhere that people have used a dry erase marker to center the clutch prior to tightening the 6 bolts around the flywheel.  I suppose it just needs to be centered enough to get the shaft through the clutch, correct?  Afterwards, the clutch plate just self centers upon pulling and releasing the clutch lever?


Am I missing something here?  Should be able to get the transmission back on the engine today if so.
  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline Laitch

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #19 on: May 18, 2018, 12:36:29 PM »
Am I missing something here?  Should be able to get the transmission back on the engine today if so.
Start at 4:13 on this video to view one way. There are many other techniques for alignment explained on this site.

  • Along the Ridley in Vermont.
  • 1995 K75 89,000 miles
I wept because I had no radials until I met a man who had no splines.
https://tinyurl.com/RillRider

Offline rbm

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #20 on: May 18, 2018, 01:30:00 PM »
I read somewhere that people have used a dry erase marker to center the clutch prior to tightening the 6 bolts around the flywheel.  I suppose it just needs to be centered enough to get the shaft through the clutch, correct?  Afterwards, the clutch plate just self centers upon pulling and releasing the clutch lever?


Am I missing something here?  Should be able to get the transmission back on the engine today if so.
Doesn't always go that easily.  The alignment between the clutch splines and the input shaft has to be perfect otherwise you'll struggle.  That means clutch centred and splines perfectly aligned.  You'll bee snugging down the clutch pinch bolts enough to prevent the clutch plates from slipping but not so tight as the plates can't move, then align the plates using the centreing tool, then torque the bolts.  You can put the gearbox in 5th and fiddle with the output shaft to get that alignment.  You might be able to use the gearbox to do final alignment on the clutch plates but that's a lot of weight to support and manhandle into place meanwhile fiddling with the precise alignment.
  • Regards, Robert
Toronto, Ontario

1987 K75 - Build Blog @http://k75retro.blogspot.ca/

Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #21 on: May 20, 2018, 12:53:09 AM »
I ended up using the 1/2" socket plus the clutch rod and it worked perfectly.  Just a little jiggle and it went right together.  I was doing it with the clutch facing up so the weight of the transmission helped I'm sure.  Bolted up the starter and alternator as well.  Will lube the splines and attach the final drive next.  Then perhaps fab up a new battery tray.



  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #22 on: May 22, 2018, 08:51:01 PM »
Hi all,


I got the front end disassembled last night.  Looks like the forks need some work.  One side has zero damping.  The other seems to only have damping on rebound.  Also, the dust caps (the black rubber things that rest of top of the forks) are cracked.  Hoping that they just need to be refilled with oil.


I looked on beemerboneyard and tried google search for the caps but couldn't find any.  Anyone have a source?


Otherwise, anything I should be looking for when I get them apart?


Separate question... any thoughts about running without the front fender?  Philosophically, I'm trying to do the rebuild in a minimalist way, "adding lightness" so to speak.  But I'm not going to ignore practical necessities... so I'm wondering if no fender means debris and damage to the radiator or other such considerations.





  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)

Offline moto949

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #23 on: May 22, 2018, 09:10:10 PM »
     I recently rode my K1 without its front fender and all was fine when it was dry out and the road was clean, but hit some stones, dust or water and it all shoots up under the bars and over the gauges at you and your bike. Better be wearing a full face helmet (or goggles) or risk trouble you really don't want. Also, I recall hearing that running without fenders may be against some local legal codes even though over the years I've seen many bikes running that way. Too many, I'd say.
     Maybe neatly trim down the stock fender to a reasonable yet functional size as a compromise?
  • florida usa
  • 1993 k75s

Offline oneplustwo

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Re: Just picked up a K75 - need input on the plan of attack
« Reply #24 on: May 22, 2018, 09:19:45 PM »
Yah, this will be a fair weather bike and I wear a full face helmet.  Trimming the fender down might be a good compromise though just to make sure I don't do too much damage to the radiator and stuff.


I may eliminate the side reflectors too.  Too maintain visibility, has anyone used "retroreflective" paint?  That plus maybe some rim tape or other reflective tape on the forks might do the trick.
  • San Francisco
  • 1990 K75S (in 1000 pieces)