frozen/correded ground bolt removal?

[schrocketeer]

Any hints on getting the Negative bolt out of the case? The bolt that has the Negative from the battery, engine case left side, behind the coils.

The Allen head bolt on mine is rusted, and I'm concerned that there is high resistance from corrosion/rust.

This is a barn find, that I've never heard run, so I have no data on the effect of this questionable ground.

I've tried PB-Blaster penetrating fluid, let it set for a few days, then try to loosen it. The corners in the allen head have started to strip.

After I get this bolt out, I plan to run a tap in the hole, to clean up the threads, and get a new bolt. Also, I'll put some anti-seize on the bolt.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

At this point I would get my Vise Grips on the head of the screw and then heat the CASE near the screw with a torch.  If you are a cigar smoker, your butane lighter is perfect for the job of putting a pinpoint of heat near the screw with minimal heat damage to the wires.  The idea is to make the case expand away from the threads of the screw.

Get the case hot, and then just before twisting the Vise Grips give the screw a couple good taps with a hammer.

If that doesn't work, drill and tap another hole for the ground screw near the old one.

[Laitch]

The bolt that has the Negative from the battery, engine case left side, behind the coils.

That would be the transmission case, left side, wouldn't it?

Anyway, using Gryph's vice-grip after soaking the screw with penetrant, I would tighten it an infintesimally small amount, then loosen it by the same amount, back and forth, little by little while slightly increasing the counterclockwise rotation. Don't let success go to your head. If it doesn't start moving by May, soak the screw head with freeze-spray and keep wiggling. :giggles

[stokester]

Agree with the suggestions from Gryph and Laitch on how to remove it.  I've found Kroil and the AC Delco penetrating fluids work best for me.


Have you tested the voltage drop under load?  I will emphasize under load because if you just check resistance it can fool you by showing continuity but because of resistance it can't handle the load.

[Chaos]

you probably don't have room but with the right adapters these work wonders on stuck fasteners

[Martin]

+1 on the impact driver. Both heat and cold can help as well as tightening and loosening. A 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone is supposed to be the best penetrant. But don't let it linger on painted surfaces.
Regards Martin.

[stokester]

you probably don't have room but with the right adapters these work wonders on stuck fasteners

Yes, just add one of these and a hammer.

[schrocketeer]

Tried allen key inside impact wrench, and heat gun (this is the before photo).
Trying vise grips back and forth, and several more applications of PB-Blaster penetrating fluid.
I'm assuming I'll put in a new bolt, after I clean up the threads with a tap.

[alexg]

Tried allen key inside impact wrench, and heat gun (this is the before photo).
Trying vise grips back and forth, and several more applications of PB-Blaster penetrating fluid.
I'm assuming I'll put in a new bolt, after I clean up the threads with a tap.

If the hex hole is rounded already, use the cutoff Dremel tool to cut a slot on the head to use a flat screwdriver with the help of vise grips.


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[BlueK11LT]

Ive never tried this myself but ive heard that a small amount of

coarse

valve grinding paste put into the head of the allen screw helps the allen socket/key get a better grip and lessens the chance of rounding the hexagon hole off.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I've had good results a few times by driving a slightly larger 3/8 drive Torx bit into the socket and using it to turn the screw. 

Do you have a compressor?  I bought a cheap Harbor Freight impact driver on sale for $30 a few years back.  Absolutely the best tool purchase I ever made in all my years.  Loosens corroded and high torque fasteners in seconds without damaging them.   Get a good set of snug-fitting 6 point impact sockets and Allen wrenches and you'll own the world.

[Martin]

You can sometimes tighten loose Allen key and sockets by putting one or two layers of heavy duty aluminium foil over the fastener.  And then tap the socket and Allen key in. There are also sockets available that have a cam roller action and grip more as pressure is applied.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

There are also sockets available that have a cam roller action and grip more as pressure is applied.
Regards Martin.

Kinda like a sprag clutch...eh?

Now don't that inspire a lot of confidence?

Gotsta backspin my ratchet...

[Laitch]

I bought a cheap Harbor Freight impact driver on sale for $30 a few years back.  Absolutely the best tool purchase I ever made in all my years.  Loosens corroded and high torque fasteners in seconds without damaging them. 

Instead, the damage happens to your hand or the bike when you miss hitting the butt of the tool with the drilling hammer. :giggles

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I gots one of them fancy air operated ones that go wHIZzzz...

Ain't whacked my hand since. 

Had one of them hammer operated ones back in the 60's.  Can you spell SUCKED...?   Tore up hundreds(maybe thousands) of Phillips head case screws on rice powered enduro racers with it.

[Martin]

If you didn't have an impact driver the chances were that you tore the heads out anyway. Japanese Philips head screws were made of cheese Italian and English screws slightly better. I ended up replacing mine even back then with Allen screws.
Regards Martin. 

[Laitch]

I gots one of them fancy air operated ones that go wHIZzzz...

Well then, the tool might only cost thirty bucks; it's operating it by something other than breath that gets costly. :giggles

[The Mighty Gryphon]

My thirty year old Craftsman compressor handles it quite nicely, only runs a couple minutes a day to feed the impact wrench.  It's amazing how little air it actually uses, but then, I only use it on the stubborn ones.