"Revive" (1985 K100 Street Scrambler Build, not a Cafe Racer)

[rbm]

I do intend to have a fuel light, from what I've researched on the forums to date, I understand the Acewell and BEP 3.0 senses the level easily with 1985 (pre float) electronic sender and that it indicates a fuel light at 7L - I could be wrong though??

Yes, the BEP 3.0 has a circuit to sense 7L threshold on the pre-85 fuel sender and trigger a lamp.  The signal is active LOW meaning it goes to ground potential when activated.  This only works with inputs on the CA85 that are also active LOW.  Acewell is not specific in the manual whether the low fuel light is active HIGH or active LOW.

[DJEwen]

Yes, the BEP 3.0 has a circuit to sense 7L threshold on the pre-85 fuel sender and trigger a lamp.  The signal is active LOW meaning it goes to ground potential when activated.  This only works with inputs on the CA85 that are also active LOW.  Acewell is not specific in the manual whether the low fuel light is active HIGH or active LOW.

Thanks, Martin. I'm planning to have the Acwell wired in by the weekend - I was hoping with the vast amount of data there is already online of wiring an Acewell with the BEP that I wouldn't need to lean on the forum too much, however, I just had to google active HIGH/LOW so I'll probably be in need of your genius.

[rbm]

Active high / Active low signals
Some indicator lights on the gauge activate when a +12V signal is applied to the wire.  This is termed active high.  Opening the circuit will turn off the indicator.  Internally to the gauge, the LED cathode is grounded.  An example of an active HIGH input is the turn signal indicator.

Alternatively, some of the indicator lights activate when they get grounded.  This is termed active low.  Opening the circuit to the input will turn off the indicator.  Internally to the gauge, the LED anode is connected to the +12V going to the gauge.  An example of an active LOW input is the oil pressure indicator.

[DJEwen]

The quality of this idea does not match the effort you have put elsewhere. Is it temporary? How will you check the coolant level? It's best not to overfill or let it diminish excessively. One of my favorite custom designs is in this post's photo array.

My custom expansion tank never arrived, I got the money back via a paypal dispute.

How about now, Laitch, any better? This was my first time wrapping.























That’s all for today, happy Friday!

[Laitch]

How about now, Laitch, any better? This was my first time wrapping.

Definitely Macbethian. Too bad you had to cover the font. It looked like an original creation—old school, or maybe primary school. Traditionally, the pressure relief hole in the cap should be aimed at your thigh. You might need to test that.

[Martin]

Laitch that was an intended Teutonic design feature to let you know the bike was overheating. And it did work as intended, it did let me know that my cooling fan was no longer working.
Regards Martin.

[DJEwen]

Installation of the BEP 3.0 with the Acewell CA85 was really easy after all. I ended up not needing the 12 core cable as there is enough length on the Acewell harnesses.
I performed the flasher relay PIN 7 snip modification and the signals worked perfectly.



I have yet to wrap the grey RPM wire around (I believe) the number 1 cylinder spark plug lead. The speedo reading seemed to be delayed, the Acewell instructions give values to programme in for specific tyre diameters, mine measure 26” so I will programme this in.

The only gauge function that didn’t appear to be working was the backlight, I’m unsure why as I terminated B-Purple to BT Backlight check on the BEP- this may be incorrect?





I have yet to figure out how to get the intigrated tail light/brake light with the 3 core cable to work as intended. I remember coming across a post regarding gutting of a relay and installing some jumper wires?

[Latvietis]

It looks veeeery veeery nice!  In my mind I have stolen few ideas! Good job mate!

You didnt chop frame- because of legislation?

But  it looks veru beatiful!


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[DJEwen]

It looks veeeery veeery nice!  In my mind I have stolen few ideas! Good job mate!

You didnt chop frame- because of legislation?

But  it looks veru beatiful!


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Thanks man. Haha, good thing not all ideas have been released to the World Wide Web yet!

No, it’s chopped, the rear frame is 140mm shorter. It’s further back in the thread.

[rbm]

Good job.  The backlight on your Acewell is operating in the video.  What do you think you should see?

P.S. The BEP 3.0 outputs engine RPM signal compatible with the Acewell on the RPM pin 24.  Why would you go the route of wrapping a wire around the spark plug?

[DJEwen]

Good job.  The backlight on your Acewell is operating in the video.  What do you think you should see?

P.S. The BEP 3.0 outputs engine RPM signal compatible with the Acewell on the RPM pin 24.  Why would you go the route of wrapping a wire around the spark plug?

Thanks, Robert. It is? I was expecting to see the dial lit up also?



Ahh... OK. I have already terminated B-Yellow RPM on the Acewell to RPM on the BEP but I had read a thread some time ago on the K100 forum that the Grey should also be used, that may have been the 2.0 however.

What’s the normal connection point for the terminations to the BEP outputs? I merely stripped the sheaths and soldered the ends for some rigidity and inserted in their respective ports.

[rbm]

Ah, that lack of dial illumination is not apparent on the video because of the high ambient light.  Yes, I think there should be a backlight and I believe it is supplied from B-Red.  Try to power the B-Red (switched 12V) and Brown (unswitched 12V) directly from the battery temporarily.  If the backlight comes on, you have a wiring problem or a BEP 3.0 problem.

Yes, the grey wire idea applied to BEP 2.0, but was solved in BEP 3.0.  It's better to use the BEP outputs for RPM and speed since they are properly conditioned.

[DJEwen]

Ah, that lack of dial illumination is not apparent on the video because of the high ambient light.  Yes, I think there should be a backlight and I believe it is supplied from B-Red.  Try to power the B-Red (switched 12V) and Brown (unswitched 12V) directly from the battery temporarily.  If the backlight comes on, you have a wiring problem or a BEP 3.0 problem.

Yes, the grey wire idea applied to BEP 2.0, but was solved in BEP 3.0.  It's better to use the BEP outputs for RPM and speed since they are properly conditioned.

I thought the light may have been giving false impressions.

I currently have B-Red terminated to SWP Switched Power in the BEP, is that not correct?

With respect to  RPM outputs, that’s what I’ll do, I’ll let you know if I have any issues.

RBM, can you help me with the intograted rear light? I have three cables, ground, brake and tail. I understand there needs to be a jumper mod to a relay for function of switched brake light?

[rbm]

I thought the light may have been giving false impressions.

I currently have B-Red terminated to SWP Switched Power in the BEP, is that not correct?

Yes, that is correct according to Maru's instructions.  I wan't doubting that.  Just offering a means to eliminate components until you find the failure.  What if there was a current limiting problem in the BEP?  By connecting the gauge to the battery temporarily, you get clues where the problem may lie.  If the gauge still fails to have a dial illumination after the move, the problem is in the gauge, not the BEP.  If the backlight comes on, the problem is in the BEP or the wiring, not the gauge.

With respect to  RPM outputs, that’s what I’ll do, I’ll let you know if I have any issues.

RBM, can you help me with the intograted rear light? I have three cables, ground, brake and tail. I understand there needs to be a jumper mod to a relay for function of switched brake light?

The BMU needs to be pypassed.  Instructions are here:  http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/bmu/bmu.htm

[DJEwen]

Yes, that is correct according to Maru's instructions.  I wan't doubting that.  Just offering a means to eliminate components until you find the failure.  What if there was a current limiting problem in the BEP?  By connecting the gauge to the battery temporarily, you get clues where the problem may lie.  If the gauge still fails to have a dial illumination after the move, the problem is in the gauge, not the BEP.  If the backlight comes on, the problem is in the BEP or the wiring, not the gauge.
The BMU needs to be pypassed.  Instructions are here:  http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/bmu/bmu.htm

Thanks Robert, no, for sure it’s great to eliminate. I hope I’m covered with a warrenty of sorts, I purchased both 3 months ago.  Do you think it possible a back light bulb may have blown in the Acewell?

The BMU mod looks simple, I’ll get onto that next week. Thanks very much!

[DJEwen]

Bad news. As RBM suggested, I executed a a process of elimination to determine the route cause of the lack of back light in the speedo. It was a short process. I ran B-Backlight+ Purple directly to the battery and with the ignition on, the backlight illuminated, returned it to the BEP respective output and lost backlight. The problem is in the BEP 3.0 unfortunately. I’ve contacted cafe4racer, where I bought it and provided them with a short video. Thanks for your direction here, Robert.

On a brighter note, I completed the BMU “gutting”. I see why they call it gutting, it is a savage mod. The same could be achieved jumping directly into the plug with spade terminals and cable but doing it within the original housing does give you the luxury of keeping the original cover.









That concludes the major wiring of the build, everything is functioning as it should, with the exception of the BEP fault and I’ve yet to prove the repair of the fuel sender harness.

Tomorrow I’ll hopefully get the fuel pump reinstalled in the tank with new submersible hose and filter. I’ve got a gas can in the car to get a squirt of fuel on the way home.

[Skunky]

Tomorrow I’ll hopefully get the fuel pump reinstalled in the tank with new submersible hose and filter. I’ve got a gas can in the car to get a squirt of fuel on the way home.

Looking good Dave

Waiting for your first start video   

[DJEwen]

Looking good Dave

Waiting for your first start video   

Thanks, Man! Yeah, me too 

[DJEwen]

I hadn’t shared this yet. Decided to run a black lower on the bottom of the tank that runs in-line with the lower line of the upper frame rail.

[DJEwen]

Any thoughts?

[DJEwen]

[DJEwen]

I can’t get her started, she’s fired 3 times but that’s it. :(





FYI, I’ve alreay cleaned the jetrronic, 4 pin and the starter contacts prior to going for first start.

[Martin]

Do the basic checks. Can you hear the fuel pump? Check spark plugs are they wet or dry? Do you have spark at the plugs? Is it a good spark or is it weak? Do you have fuel? Do you have pressure at the rail?
Regards Martin.

[DJEwen]

Do the basic checks. Can you hear the fuel pump? Check spark plugs are they wet or dry? Do you have spark at the plugs? Is it a good spark or is it weak? Do you have fuel? Do you have pressure at the rail?
Regards Martin.

Yes I can hear the pump.

Spark plugs are wet.

The plugs have strong spark.

I have 5L of fuel.

Pressure at the rail - unsure.

[Martin]

Pull the #6 fuse which supplies power to the fuel pump or alternatively disconnect the 4 pin connector to the pump. Try and start with the residual fuel that is in the combustion chamber. The engine should start, as the engine dies push the fuse back in or reconnect the 4 pin connector. A bit of throttle manipulation will be required to keep it running, it is easier with two people. If it does try to start try cleaning the connection to the temperature sensor in the stand pipe. If cleaning does not work test the values of the sensor.
Regards Martin.