Author Topic: Triple S  (Read 8662 times)

Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #100 on: June 04, 2018, 03:59:58 PM »
Iíve started working my way through the abortion of a fire damaged harness that was apparently repaired. Iím still amazed the bike ran, just shows how hardy these bricks are.









So... I feel a little out of my depth with regards to the wiring. Iím no electrician, I can solder, I have solder, a soldering iron, heat shrink, flux, dielectric grease, multi meter etc etc. I read P&IDs in my job which naturally translates over into reading the wiring diagram with ease but I do feel a little overwhelmed.

Eventually managed to procure a used sender to replace the melted one.





I started to mock up up the run, I had planned, in my head, to mount the BEP 3.0 in the electric box, it seemed the most logical place, I realise this will be a tight squeeze but doable. Itís clear I need to strip the harness right back in order to relocate the two main plugs, that originally terminated in the lunchbox dash, down to the electrical box to be mated up to the BEP as intended. Doing this will obviously leave me with a long run of spare cable, I had no intentions of doubling this back on itself or trying to stuff it in the electrical box and think the cleanest way would be to shorten. How would I do this, can I pop each individual cable from the plug somehow, shorten then re-terminate or would I have to cut, solder, seal? Or should I double back tidy under the frame?






So... the BEP 3.0... Apologies in advance if Iím being a total idiot. I have a wiring diagram for the Acewell and the K wiring diagram. The BEP is Ďsimpleí, right, you plug the main plugs from the original dash in to their respective ports, you then terminate from each labelled output to their respective component and thatís it? Is that it? What Iím not clear on are the original cables that donít form part of those two plugs, example: Headlight or flashers. What happens to those, they still terminate to their respective relays. Do they need to run from the relays into the outputs of the BEP then jump on to the specific component? The BEP didnít come with a manual either which isnít helping my confusion. Iíve searched a lot of threads that have detail regarding certain aspects of the BEP but it doesnít appear anyoneís posted a detailed installation thread.

Thanks in advance

Dave
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Offline Skunky

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #101 on: June 04, 2018, 04:12:03 PM »
Hi Skunky, nothing built inline. Thanks for the information, Iíll order a standard filament job.

While youíre informing- Iíve got LED indicators, is it just a case of doing the hyper flash snip to the flasher relay to combat these once wired? (I read this about 6 months ago so may be incorrect)

Hi Mate

Before you chop anything are you planning on keeping the stock speedo or fitting an aftermarket one. If you are thinking of using the Marulabs 3.0 module you wont need any resistance for LED indicators as they have built it into the device. If you are using the original speedo its easier to fit in line led indicator resistors. Available on ebay for peanuts. 
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Offline Skunky

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #102 on: June 04, 2018, 04:23:48 PM »
Wow what a mess. The BEP was relatively easy to install you just have to make sure that you get the right polarity for each output. As I said just now the LED indicators won't need resistors as Marulabs have fitted a switch and internal resistors.

If you go to Cafť racer 4 u you can download detailed instructions for fitting with an acewell written in English by Marulabs.

https://cafe4racer.eu/en/others/296-marulabs-bep-3.html

It goes into much more detail than any thread I've seen and made it much easier.
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #103 on: June 04, 2018, 04:40:29 PM »
Hi Mate

Before you chop anything are you planning on keeping the stock speedo or fitting an aftermarket one. If you are thinking of using the Marulabs 3.0 module you wont need any resistance for LED indicators as they have built it into the device. If you are using the original speedo its easier to fit in line led indicator resistors. Available on ebay for peanuts. 

Thanks, Skunky. Iíve not chopped anything other than cutting out the damage and repairing. Itís the 3.0 I have, so I wonít need to make the flasher relay snip mod as itís built into the BEP 3.0 already? Iím installing an Acewell CA85.

Wow what a mess. The BEP was relatively easy to install you just have to make sure that you get the right polarity for each output. As I said just now the LED indicators won't need resistors as Marulabs have fitted a switch and internal resistors.

If you go to Cafť racer 4 u you can download detailed instructions for fitting with an acewell written in English by Marulabs.

https://cafe4racer.eu/en/others/296-marulabs-bep-3.html

It goes into much more detail than any thread I've seen and made it much easier.

Excellent, Iíll go download that. Thanks. What did you do, Skunky? Did you use the original wiring for their respective conpnonent, chop it out and terminate it to the BEP outputs?
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Offline Skunky

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #104 on: June 04, 2018, 05:14:36 PM »
No I just pulled the original wiring through the frame and under the tank and made a new looms to go to the new speedo headlights etc. That way you can put the original clocks back in at any time. Some people have enough slack that they have managed to get it in the electrical box. You might want to put it back together with the stock speedo and run it before fitting the acewell. Make sure you have repaired all of the burnt wiring issues.
If my bike turns out to be a keeper I may update all the wiring with the Motogadget M-unit. I just thought it was a bit pricy at this stage.
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #105 on: June 05, 2018, 03:44:27 PM »
No I just pulled the original wiring through the frame and under the tank and made a new looms to go to the new speedo headlights etc. That way you can put the original clocks back in at any time. Some people have enough slack that they have managed to get it in the electrical box. You might want to put it back together with the stock speedo and run it before fitting the acewell. Make sure you have repaired all of the burnt wiring issues.
If my bike turns out to be a keeper I may update all the wiring with the Motogadget M-unit. I just thought it was a bit pricy at this stage.

Thatís a great idea with respect to trying back the dash first.

So, youíre saying you just left in all the original sections but run new cabling from the outputs of the BEP?

This was where my confusion lay ďwhat about all the original cables and terminationsĒ They just become redundant? Do most just snip them and forget about them, except yourself of course?
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Offline Skunky

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #106 on: June 05, 2018, 04:27:08 PM »
Its just a lot of jointing and rewiring for the lights indicators etc.

I have a soldering iron and heat shrink and wherever possible used the stock joins under the tank by soldering new cables onto the old ones. If your headlight has the same three prong H$ fitting you may not need to do it. Mine has the new daymaker lamps in and needed re-wiring. The indicators I traced the wiring back and remade the connections under the tank. The rear lights and indicators I used the stock connector under the new set / Tail so that I can remove the while lot by disconnecting it. The speedo you just plug the existing connectors into the BEP3.0 and then run new wires to the speedo. The wires on the cheap Chinese unit were far too short so I bought some multicore cable meant for caravan towbars and stripped the wire out to make a new loom them made solder joints along a length of about 6 inches to keep it tidy using heat shrink and tape to keep it tidy(ish).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Core-Towbar-Cable-Per-Metre/302724558226?hash=item467bca2d92:g:-bEAAOSwRQla6Ysp
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Offline Skunky

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #107 on: June 05, 2018, 04:36:06 PM »
The BEP is for the Speedo only. The terminations are for the lights on the speedo or any other idiot lights you may want to use.
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #108 on: June 05, 2018, 04:49:01 PM »
Ahhhh...

Right, OK. I understand it all now. Wowzers, I was having a total brain fart there but see it really isnít that complicated at all. I can see this taking an age though, Iím at the hospital every second night right now too.

The caravan 12 core is a great idea for a loom run. Just checked that link and it doesnít seem to detail thickness of the individual cores?
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Offline Skunky

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #109 on: June 05, 2018, 05:04:15 PM »
Ahhhh...

Right, OK. I understand it all now. Wowzers, I was having a total brain fart there but see it really isnít that complicated at all. I can see this taking an age though, Iím at the hospital every second night right now too.

The caravan 12 core is a great idea for a loom run. Just checked that link and it doesnít seem to detail thickness of the individual cores?

The cores are designed for 12v dc so will be fine.

If you are fitting led all round you can even do away with the bulb monitoring circuit. I didn't bother though.
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #110 on: June 06, 2018, 06:30:01 AM »
Excellent, Iíve ordered 2m of it with 48 hr courier.  Guess what Iíll be doing this weekend.
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #111 on: June 07, 2018, 04:08:14 PM »
Some cable for replacing more fire damage arrived along with the 2m of 12 core (Thanks Skunky) for running from the Acewell to the BEP.



The new rear master arrived also so I decided to take a break from harness repair and get the rear brake finished.



I got everything installed and started bleeding the rear calliper, half way through, yep... a leak from the calliper halves. I drained, cleaned the brake fluid off my new paint, took the calliper to the bench and stripped it.
Now... this calliper is the double O ring type, my brembo rebuild kits only came with single O-Rings (as also confirmed by Motoworks) so I also purchased a calliper mating half O ring from Motoworks. There was a noticeable difference in the two, the Brembo type was thicker but the stand alone O ring didnít seem to be lacking diameter to seal, however, immediately on splitting the calliper it was apparent the sealing faces outside of the non Brembo O ring were marked with fluid whereas the Brembo end was dry, it is possible that fluid passed over the mating surface the second I split the calliper so itís difficult to tell.

I cleaned everything up, checked alignment again, re-installed the seals and ran around the outside of them with some gasket maker. I appreciate gasket maker likely wonít hold the hydraulic pressure but I was happy to give it an attempt. I gave the instant gasket 10 minutes to skin over then re mated the halves and added an additional 10% torque load. Will see what happens tomorrow.

I think my next step, if it leaks again, would be to split one of the fronts to steal the genuine Brembo O-Ring and install it in the rear in an attempt to eliminate non Brembo O-Ring as fault.

Any ideas?
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #112 on: June 08, 2018, 04:18:18 PM »
Right... I bled the rear calliper with it de-mounted, nipped the bleed nipple then pumped it up, no leaks from the halves but the inner most calliper was leaking fluid past the piston, I suspect this was the leak last night. I pumped out the piston and split the calliper again for inspection, hereís what I found:





I turned the seal inside out so the tear was facing the internal cast of the calliper rather than the piston, mated the halves back together (without instant gasket), returned to the bike, bled, pumped up- no leaks from the halves again but the inner half continued to leak via the piston, much less than before, more of a seep. I need 1x calliper seal....

On a positive note, the main harness repairs are complete and the electrical box and loom are back in the bike.

Lesson of the week learned- slow down, take your time, there is no rush.

Except summer will be gone by the time Iíve finsihed this and Iíve nothing else to ride
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #113 on: June 09, 2018, 12:07:00 PM »
Headlight mounted and wired in.



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Offline johnny

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #114 on: June 09, 2018, 12:12:31 PM »
greetings...

this is gonna be 1 hawt brick...

j o
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #115 on: June 09, 2018, 12:37:36 PM »
greetings...

this is gonna be 1 hawt brick...

j o

Fingers crossed, Johnny!
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #116 on: June 10, 2018, 02:37:42 PM »
Hello Brickers

Today I wired up the new rear light, flashers and installed the gear shifter.

I then mounted the LHS control housing with lever and grip, stole the ball and chains hair spray but the hairspray grip trick didnít seem to work for me?

I ran in and adjusted the new choke lever and installed the clutch lever- man that baby is tight, quite a left hand workout to clutch, is that normal?

Also, finished the rear calliper with thankfully no leaks. I do however have a bit of contact with the disc whilst the brake is off, I believe the term is dragging. There is no corrosion on the calliper housings or pistons and both were lubed with DOT 4 during install, any thoughts on how to cure this?

Thanks in advance

Dave
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Offline Skunky

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #117 on: June 12, 2018, 06:06:42 PM »
Hello Brickers

Today I wired up the new rear light, flashers and installed the gear shifter.

I then mounted the LHS control housing with lever and grip, stole the ball and chains hair spray but the hairspray grip trick didnít seem to work for me?

I ran in and adjusted the new choke lever and installed the clutch lever- man that baby is tight, quite a left hand workout to clutch, is that normal?

Also, finished the rear calliper with thankfully no leaks. I do however have a bit of contact with the disc whilst the brake is off, I believe the term is dragging. There is no corrosion on the calliper housings or pistons and both were lubed with DOT 4 during install, any thoughts on how to cure this?

Thanks in advance

Dave

Hi Dave

It's appears from the forum that its normally the Clutch arm bearings that need greasing but I think you did yours already.
Also remember these bikes are designed for 7ft Germans not namby-pamby Geordies. He put a Mod on his

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=10301.0;attach=70712;image

Anyway Mine was pretty hard too. I freed it up and slathered grease on the bugger and its seems ok now. Firm but fair.


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Offline Martin

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #118 on: June 12, 2018, 08:13:11 PM »
Lube the cable with a PTFE based lubricant not WD40. Lubricate all pivot points with white lithium spray grease. Make sure the clutch lever is lubricated and not sloppy.
Regards Martin.
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #119 on: June 13, 2018, 02:58:36 AM »
Hi Dave

It's appears from the forum that its normally the Clutch arm bearings that need greasing but I think you did yours already.
Also remember these bikes are designed for 7ft Germans not namby-pamby Geordies. He put a Mod on his

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=10301.0;attach=70712;image

Anyway Mine was pretty hard too. I freed it up and slathered grease on the bugger and its seems ok now. Firm but fair.


That's right, Skunky, all bearings new, fresh and greased. I've not done Martins grease nipple MOD, yet [goes to ebay for grease gun and nipples] Even just pushing the clutch arm up into the clutch felt like a bit of a task, the spring plate is tough. I guess 6' 2" of Scotsman is no match for 7' German.

Lube the cable with a PTFE based lubricant not WD40. Lubricate all pivot points with white lithium spray grease. Make sure the clutch lever is lubricated and not sloppy.
Regards Martin.

All tight and lubed, Martin  :2thumbup:



Anyone got any tips on the draggy rear brake from a few posts up?
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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #120 on: June 13, 2018, 03:52:01 PM »
Edit: Clutch is all good. Controls are now fully mounted, had a seat and positioned and the clutch felt fine.

Really close to first start.... potentially this weekend...  :falldown:
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Offline Latvietis

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #121 on: June 13, 2018, 03:53:26 PM »
No photos?.. [emoji80]


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Offline DJEwen

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #122 on: June 13, 2018, 04:25:46 PM »
No photos?.. [emoji80]


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Iím trying not to give too much away! Classic chrome round mirrors installed. Rag covering the shortened  fender removed. I didnít like how much I chopped this initially and wasnít going to run it but itís grown on me.

Switch gear buttons will be restored this weeken, post function test.

Just for you, Latvietis:





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Offline Skunky

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #123 on: June 13, 2018, 07:32:02 PM »
Hey DJ,

What lights have you got on the Speedo and have you planned for a fuel light. I had but changed my mind when I saw how difficult it was going to be.
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Offline Enfield

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Re: Triple S
« Reply #124 on: June 13, 2018, 11:30:42 PM »
Iím trying not to give too much away! Classic chrome round mirrors installed. Rag covering the shortened  fender removed. I didnít like how much I chopped this initially and wasnít going to run it but itís grown on me.

Damn it is looking Good ! Did you lift the front fender? It is a thight fit with Scout! I drilled new holes that allowed it to be lifted just about an inch!
 Hope you Will be riding this summer[emoji1303]


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