"Revive" (1985 K100 Street Scrambler Build, not a Cafe Racer)

[Laitch]

Where are you pulling that information from, Cafe4Racer? Its not in the BEP user manual, nor on Marulabs website, nor on the instructions that came with my BEP... anywhere.

I don't know where Skunky found it, but I found it at cafe4racer on this page. Scroll down and click on the thumbnail indicated by the arrow.

[DJEwen]

I don't know where Skunky found it, but I found it at cafe4racer on this page. Scroll down and click on the thumbnail indicated by the arrow.

So this incredibly well distributed information on the hidden BEP switches that are located inside the unit appear in a single thumbnail photograph of one of the distributors, not on their website detailing the product and functions or in their user manual, genius. This isn’t the Illuminati.

Thanks for the direction and searching, guys. I’ll get onto it ASAP!

[DJEwen]

I think you should install a half-fender then go ahead with the string of LEDs at frame or seat height.

Something like this, Laitch?

[DJEwen]

Actually it looks from the photos like you have a Hagon shock and it looks a bit soft. I can see you're not a small unit but you should be able to go two up without hitting the frame. Why not try the standard shock off your donor bike. Set it on its hardest setting.

It’s arguably maybe not the correct shock for the bike but came with it and it’s in great condition. Good shout with respect to the donor shock, it’s in a fair mess but a good starter for 10.

[Laitch]

This isn’t the Illuminati.

Keep telling yourself that. :giggles  My robe came from Revzilla—500D Cordura. Motoport Stretch is bestowed at the highest level.

Something like this, Laitch?

The Honda's tail light looks like it'd be a wiggler in that position, but that's a start. You could do better than that. You must do better—to match your moto's brio.

[DJEwen]

Keep telling yourself that. :giggles  My robe came from Revzilla—500D Cordura. Motoport Stretch is bestowed at the highest level.

That guy has the most annoying video review introduction! :giggles

The Honda's tail light looks like it'd be a wiggler in that position, but that's a start. You could do better than that. You must do better—to match your moto's brio.

Aye, it looks like an after thought, like a fog light complete with rusty bracket that’s been slapped on the underside of an imported Subaru Impreza rear bumper to pass a UK MOT. The fender is about where I need to be, however.
 I’ll have to mock up a template first, I wonder if I have enough exposed rear wheel/reduced overhang to warrant a fender? I guess the smashed tail light(s) answers that thought.

[DJEwen]

Dave with reference to your fuel light issue and the BEP3.0 hidden switches. Read this thread and there is diagram of the switches. Switch 2 controls the BAR for a warning light


switch 1 : enable/disable choke
switch 2 : fuel level selector : full bar mode or a LED at 4liter
switch 3 : enable/disable bulbtester
switch 4 : speed stabilisation
switch 5 : enable/disable blinkers


bep-3 switches.jpg (167.43 kB . 367x420 - viewed 1047 times)

Gary, were you supposed to post a link to the part where you said "this thread"?

[Laitch]

Gary, were you supposed to post a link to the part where you said "this thread"?

I'm not Gary, but let's pretend. I typed bep switches site:motobrick.com into the Google search engine. This was the first hit of the list—Reply #4.

[DJEwen]

I'm not Gary, but let's pretend. I typed bep switches site:motobrick.com into the Google search engine. This was the first hit of the list—Reply #4.

Cheers, Laitch.

[DJEwen]

Sorted the rear light issue by mounting a multi function Brake/Tail/Licence & Turn Signal intigrated Light on the numberplate Mount, I wired everything up except the LHS turn signal so not to confuse motorists as the Motogadget indicator on the left of the rear hoop is still operational.

I also added some bar end indicators, road tested and there’s no vibration in the handlebars with the weighted ends gone. I also made some further adjustments to the bar position, rotating them back slightly and the controls forward.

[Laitch]

I think the use of the rear light to indicate left turn only could result in a rear collision. If drivers have been following you before and after you have turned left, it is likely  they will be expecting a right turn to be indicated by the rear light and focusing on it instead of the bar indicator. That could cause their running up on you. Using both rear lenses as double strength tail and brake ilights would be a better use. The bar end indicators alone should be sufficient to indicate turns.

Then there is this observation from your friends at the MOT.

[lysy40]

In Poland, the rear light must be in the center of the vehicle

[DJEwen]

I think the use of the rear light to indicate left turn only could result in a rear collision. If drivers have been following you before and after you have turned left, it is likely  they will be expecting a right turn to be indicated by the rear light and focusing on it instead of the bar indicator. That could cause their running up on you. Using both rear lenses as double strength tail and brake ilights would be a better use. The bar end indicators alone should be sufficient to indicate turns.

Then there is this observation from your friends at the MOT.

It’s the LHS I’ve not wired up, Laitch. The reason the Motogadget M Blaze PIN indicators are still on the frame are to comply with the separation distance as indicated in your MOT chat.

Don’t forget the turn signals are still on the back of the frame. So when turning right all RHS indicators on the headlight right, bar end right, frame right and licence plate right, blink right. When turning left all the equivalent turn signals on the LHS of the moto blink left but the LHS of the numberplate light doesn’t as I haven’t connected it. If I wired it up as you suggest, when I’m indicating LEFT, everything lights up on the left but then I would have a lamp on the RIGHT hand side of the moto (as that’s where the plate is mounted) blinking along with them. I think that would be more confusing.

In Poland, the rear light must be in the center of the vehicle

Still Scotland when I look out the window :giggles

[natalena]

With a little forethought, making all right turns to get to a destination shouldn't be excessive work. problem solved.

I'm with Laitch though. As a Mini S driver, I would most likely be mesmerized by the brake light and go for you like a moth.

You should have a buddy take a dusk picture of you running a country road, with long time exposure, it'd probably look way cool.

[DJEwen]

With a little forethought, making all right turns to get to a destination shouldn't be excessive work. problem solved.

I'm with Laitch though. As a Mini S driver, I would most likely be mesmerized by the brake light and go for you like a moth.

You should have a buddy take a dusk picture of you running a country road, with long time exposure, it'd probably look way cool.

For real? You both think I should have a light blinking on the RIGHT of the bike when I want to turn LEFT!
The only thing you’ll be mesmerised by is the retina burning Motogadget turn signals.

Anyway, if I wire them both up it’s an MOT fail due to insufficient spacing. I’ll still do the seat mod but can’t gwt the upholsterer until Mid May.

[Laitch]

For real? You both think I should have a light blinking on the RIGHT of the bike when I want to turn LEFT!

Very funny.

I transposed your wiring scheme. I think for distracted drivers, warning lights need to be symmetrical. There's no payoff for a left turn indication to be more emphatic or visible than a right turn, and that doing so might mislead drivers following you that are more interested in giving themselves pedicures while assessing road conditions. That's the only point I was struggling to make.

[natalena]

Of course, it could be a "colonies" idiosyncrasy, as we drive on the right side of the road to start with. ;)

Seriously though, a separation from center for signals is what the human brain processing needs, especially for average or distracted drivers. I've seen customs with signals 4-5cm outboard from the brakelight, which looks tidy, but accomplishes little for awareness.

[DJEwen]

Crash bars are off to the Powdercoaters...

[DJEwen]

The fuel light worked on the other broken sender. I have a new one en route.

[DJEwen]

Crash bars are not for crashing... Crash bars are not for crashing... Crash bars are not for crashing...

[Postman]

Nice bike! Where are those mirrors? Do you have any photo of this radiator grill and what material you use?

[DJEwen]

Nice bike! Where are those mirrors? Do you have any photo of this radiator grill and what material you use?

Hi Postman.

Thanks. Bought the mirrors on eBay. Details on the grill, mesh type etc are slightly further back in the thread, specifically post 326 onwards.

[DJEwen]

[Postman]

Hi Postman.

Thanks. Bought the mirrors on eBay. Details on the grill, mesh type etc are slightly further back in the thread, specifically post 326 onwards.

Thanks! Made an order of those Revotec pull through ties. Now I have to find net for the protector. I still have original radiator protection and maybe I can use that.

I was looking those aluminium mask nets but they were not stiff enough.

[DJEwen]

Thanks! Made an order of those Revotec pull through ties. Now I have to find net for the protector. I still have original radiator protection and maybe I can use that.

I was looking those aluminium mask nets but they were not stiff enough.

It was some Stainless Steel 5 Mesh I used, if you cut it smart enough the left and right edges tuck into the sides of the radiator, I also bought some rubber edging strip to dress the upper and lower edges. That combined with your pull through ties makes for a tidy job.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223441616108