Giving the old Brick the TLC she needs...87 K100 RS

[Timbox]

The other day I pulled the trigger on a bike I had been looking at for a long time on the old "C" list.  After getting the seller to post some better pics (all sides of the bike) I made the drive.

Yesterday I tool the old BMW batter out, opened up the top and she looked really dry.  I had some batter acid saved from other projects and filled it up.  I left it on the charger over night, I was happy to see 100% on the charger this morning.  I pulled the charger and will get back to the batter later to see if it holds a charge in a cold WI shed.

While the batter was doing it's thing, I opened the gas tank to smell some varnished up gas.  The tank looked good from the outside, so I was hoping no bottom rust and the tank was hold gas with no leaks.  Drained the gas and then went for the key.

I smiled when the lights came on when i turned the key, was really happy that all the lights, switches, blinkers and even the horn worked.  I knew that I would have a issue with the fuel system thought.

Today I pulled of the Plastic to get to the injectors to see what they looked like.  That was a little more work then I thought it would be and a lot of BP blaster, compressed air and leverage. 

Injectors and inside of tank look bad, I will hit the tank with a few gallons of white vinegar to let it soak, I think that everything in there is toast and will have to be replace, but from all the nice posts I have reading the vinegar really does the trick.

I have a ultrasonic cleaner and I see many are using a 9v battery and some injector cleaner in the ultrasonic cleaners, I hope mine come back to life.
Want to thank the many that have come before me with their Brick projects, making me feel better and giving me some confidence with mine.  I will continue to keep reading as I go and keep my questions to a minimum.  Lots of nice posts out there that I am very thankful for.
20180218_155240[1] by Tim Brown, on Flickr
20180218_155230[1] by Tim Brown, on Flickr
20180219_162726[1] by Tim Brown, on Flickr
20180219_162740[1] by Tim Brown, on Flickr
20180219_162750[1] by Tim Brown, on Flickr
20180219_162805[1] by Tim Brown, on Flickr

[Supershooter]

Tim,
Muratic Acid and water also makes and effective solvent for cleaning the inside of your tank. It worked great when cleaning mine


Supershooter

[Martin]

Soaking the pump in white vinegar for a week or two will sometimes revive them. The brief application of 12V and swapping the polarity back and forth will sometimes persuade them to go. As a last resort try using 18V briefly. Use only submersible rated fuel line in the tank with non worm drive hose clips. If the pump is dead you can get Chinese ones cheap however beware not all pumps are created equal. See http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10054.msg85798.html#msg85798 For cheaper non Chinese see http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1958.htm
Regards Martin.

[Timbox]

Got the tank off today and got to work cleaning it.  I pulled the old pump out and I think it is time just to get a new one.  This thing is nasty as many other posts have showed from other rebuilds.  I can see why people just got right to a new one, wow nasty.
20180220_151451[1] by Tim Brown, on Flickr
This is after lots of rags, compressed air and a wet dry vac to get most of the nasty stuff off. 
20180220_154422[1] by Tim Brown, on Flickr
So got the vinegar in the tank and injectors in the sonic cleaner.  I tried to get the injectors firing with some 12v hits but didn't feel or hear anything.  I hope that once they are out of the sonic I can hit them with some B12 chem cleaner and get them working.

[Supershooter]

Mr Injector, did a great job, on my injectors if they give you problems


Supershooter

[Timbox]

Got the FEP on order (E2042) and working on the injectors.  So far after using the sonic cleaner with it's heating action, two of them have come back to life.!!  I hope to get them all working and then clean them up with some B12 Chem tool. 

Been doing lots of reading on the FEP install and it will be interesting to see how it goes.  I know the tank is starting to look good already but I will let is soak for some time. Great links and options,  wondering if I should go with the fuel line mod around the pump or some fuel foam/sponge.  I have been reading it is critical to mount the new pump low enough in the support so you don't rob yourself of fuel on corners, when the tank is low.

Still wondering if I will be able to do anything with the low fuel indicator in the tank, it looks bad.  I read through and bookmarked that great post on how to check it.  Once I open the bottom of the tank up and see how those wires are doing, I guess we will see.

Sense I picked this bike up as a non runner, I don't really want to jump into the rest (brakes, final drive ect) until I get her running.  Then I can really dive into it and start to work on all the little things that make the bike safe.

[Martin]

A fuel injector shop told me they use acrylic thinners to clean them. I had a couple that refused to operate but the thinners got them going. Be warned thinner fumes softened the lid on my ultrasonic cleaner, and as a precaution remove the filter screens and "O" rings.  :hehehe But it still works and the lid has hardened up.
Regards Martin.

[Timbox]

A fuel injector shop told me they use acrylic thinners to clean them. I had a couple that refused to operate but the thinners got them going. Be warned thinner fumes softened the lid on my ultrasonic cleaner, and as a precaution remove the filter screens and "O" rings.  :hehehe But it still works and the lid has hardened up.
Regards Martin.

Yes thanks, I just used the heat and the vinegar and it worked just fine.  I lent my sonic cleaner out to a friend and they used some chem in it and more or less did what you described.  It still works but not meant to have the harsher chem cleaners in it.  I have used concentrated lemon juice when I was doing my carb jets and then for parts I normally do supper clean.

As for the varnish in the injectors, I really wanted to use the chem stuff but went with vinegar and the heat from the machine.  I would take them out after a few cycles and then hit them with the 9v.  Had them in hand to feel and listen for the "click".  All four of the are "clicking" now but have not had the inner part cleaned with a varnish cleaner.  Should be warm enough to get back out to the shed to see if I can pass fluid through them.

[Martin]

Check that the spray patterns are the same as the attached post.
Regards Martin.

Injector spray patterns.jpg (21.29 kB . 350x206 - viewed 740 times)

[Timbox]

Thanks for the great pic of the injectors and how they should look.  I rig up a can of B12 with rubber hoses to the injector of the can.  Saw it on a Youtube vid when I was cleaning the injectors for my 07 Bandit 1250.  Anyway, they work really well after all the nasty stuff came out of them.  So cooking them in the sonic cleaner and then hitting them with the B12 really did the trick.

Put all the "O" rings from the injectors in some Mystery oil to let them soak as I plan on using them again.  Really cleaned the injector mounting ports on the head, wow can that be nasty.  I was really glad that I read the part about blasting them with air and checking the little spaces with a fine flat tip.  Lots of road grime in that area. 

I also got a chance to bleed front and back brakes with new Dot 4.  Checked and filled the final drive and checked the air box/cleaner.  The High/Low headlight switch needs some looking at and I am sure PB blaster or other lube. 

Looks the the fluid in the radiator is a little low, not too much but needs to be topped off.  I also need to adjust the clutch as there is no slack on the clutch handle.  Saw a great Vid on how to do as well, but not too sure how smoothly that will go.  Then adjusting the kickstand lever should be done...from what I read.

Getting all the paper work together, printing out the pics and double checking my statement on all the forms for the Bonded title.  I will send that off before the weekend.  My last one took about four weeks I think to hear back from them.  This time I feel a little more comfortable sense I have been through the process before.

More pics and progress as the parts come in and if the temps stay warmer. 

[Martin]

I made up a hose reduction for my shop vac so I can vacuum around the injectors before removal. After I remove them I vacuum and clean around the ports with these really huge cotton buds I scored off a medical supply shop. Spraying with the cotton buds with degreaser for the final clean, I don't vacuum on the final stage as I don't want to blow up the shop vac. :nono
Regards Martin.

[Timbox]

Blowing up a shop vac, that would make a good vid!  I am sure that with enough fumes it would be possible.  Another reason why I used vinegar in the tank because I do want to use compressed air and a shop vac to get all the little bits out.  I don't want to flame out my vac. 

Still would be cool to see on a vid...I might have to search youtube for that. :)

[The Mighty Gryphon]

A long time ago, in the shop where I worked at the time, someone spilled a gallon of, I think it was acetone, and tried to clean it up with a 55 gallon industrial shop vac.  Blew out a cement block wall and would have killed somebody if it had not been behind a large machining center.  As it was, a couple guys were cut up pretty bad from flying debris.

[Timbox]

Removed the vinegar today and got most of the nasty stuff out of the tank.  Found more black gobs not too sure if they were old rubber hose or I am guessing the rubber from the vibration sleeve.

Still stuff in the tank, will have to get some accetone and compressed air to get the rest of of it out.  The BMW fuel pump is done!  I had it in the sonic with heat for hours.  Looks like it was going to work as all the nasty varnish came out of it.  I hit it with + - and then - + and it will bump but not run.  I will keep working on it for a while but the other pump should be here soon.

As for the fuel line, most of you get away with 12" from the FEP to the filter?  Looks like it needs to be longer then that, and for now I can't find it in longer length.

Should warm up here in the next few days and I will be able to get back to the bike, need this tank cleaned up first and then get the rest of the fuel system cleaned up. SuperShooter is leading the way for me in doing the same and showing me places that still might be all mucked up. 

[Timbox]

The tank is coming along, still not perfect my any means but after the next vacuum I think it will be good.
Clean Tank by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Clean tank 1 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
This pic is not so good, but a K&N crank case breaker could be modded for this fuel filter ...maybe, I have no idea if it would hold up to the fuel.
$10 pump by Tim Brown, on Flickr
$10 pump 2 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
I will also need some new "O" rings for the injectors, if someone has a part number for me or I will look and find them.
Injector in need of O rings by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Now come the good but maybe bad news.  After letting the BMW fuel pump sit with PB  blast in it, that old pump started to work.  I have the NAPA pump on order and think I will use it.  My question is would it be wise to use the old BMW pump?
If so I think I would need a new fuel pump filter.
Old pump filter by Tim Brown, on Flickr

[Filmcamera]

The O rings for the injectors are available at Max BMW for $5.91 EACH but there HAS to be a cheaper way.. anway they are part # 13 64 1 730 767

[The Mighty Gryphon]

I bought a dozen o-rings for the injectors for the K100 for like $15 on eBay.  Most auto parts stores have them.  I think they are the same size as found on 90's vintage Mustangs.  Someeone here should know.

[Laitch]

. . . a K&N crank case breaker could be modded for this fuel filter ...maybe, I have no idea if it would hold up to the fuel.
My question is would it be wise to use the old BMW pump?

Immersing a vapor breather in fuel for use as a pump pre-filter is not a good idea. Use parts designed for the application.

You have ordered a fuel pump. Does it come with a pre-filter? Is it made for immersion?

I bought a dozen injectors for the K100 for like $15 on eBay. 

Injectors, or injector o-rings? People are disappointed enough by the time they get here, Gryph. :giggles  A couple of o-ring alternatives can be found in the Alternate Parts section of the Repair Guidance section, too.

[Timbox]

Laitch & M G,

Thanks for the input and great ideas, I did order some of of ebay last night but as was stated, might not work but it could.  Reading S S post looks like I could either get lucky or I could be trouble shooting all the little parts of the fuel system.

I was really surprised at how much the "O" rings swelled when I had them soaking in the Mystery Oil.  Normally that oil does wonderfully with that job.  I will go out today and see if I can find some at at a local auto store, after look at the alternate parts page that Leitch pointed out.

[Timbox]

Thanks for the nudge in the right direction....here is the post for the "O" ring and NAPA part number.  Thanks again Larry Johnson for the info :)

"The 0-rings for the fuel injectors on a 1990 Mustang 302 c.i. engine gauge out the same as the new ones Mr. Injector had installed. And they were available for $2.89 for four at a local parts store.

Larry Johnson



NAPA Part number: FPG ES70599"

BWD Fuel Injector Seal Kit from O'Reilly Auto Parts Part #274571  One kit per injector.  $1.69 and they worked great!

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Injectors, or injector o-rings? People are disappointed enough by the time they get here, Gryph. :giggles   

OMG!  I'd hate to disappoint anyone seeking an answer here.   Posting is fixed.

O-rings for the injectors.

[Timbox]

Got the Brick running today!  Wow did she smoke and normally I would have been worried but K100's do that,so I have read.  After sitting for 10 yrs boy did it smoke, windows open fans on, but the smoke did come to a end after a bit.
Pump in jug to run bike by Tim Brown, on Flickr
I was still not happy with the gas tank and how I am going to mount the pump in the tank, so I just bypassed the gas tank.  Ran the pump off a battery just to flush the fuel rail and all the other hoses, reg and anything I could have missed.  Slapped a inline fuel filter on the return line just in case.
Pump and fuel return by Tim Brown, on Flickr
Did find out that there was no power going through the four wire connector.  Did a little looking and there was no 15A fuse that would normally power it.  Once I cleaned all the fuse and replaced the 15A missing fuse, everything worked great.  I think that my low fuel device is working too, it is up and open or down and shorted, so that should work.
Bypass the gas tank by Tim Brown, on Flickr

[The Mighty Gryphon]

Smoke?  Wanna see smoke?...

[Timbox]

Yes, that is what I am talking about...well I think I had the garage door open and the fans on before it got to that point.  I had a metric bike this happened with and it ended up being a bad valve seal.  Not on these bike, the smoke did clean but I was a little concerned. 

As I have said before, you just never know what one of these project bikes after sitting for yrs (10) is going to do when she starts.  I was surprised to see that once you hit the start button that the fuel pump turns on and stays on until the bike is turned off.  I guess that is a good thing if you want to use any additives in the gas, sure will mix it well.

Thanks for sharing the pic, that is funny and I can relate. ;)

[Timbox]

Got a new battery today.
New Battery by Tim Brown, on Flickr
I also tried to mount the seat to see if it will work.  I can get it to lock and fit correctly but not with the back hinge on.
Seat 2 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
The front right hinge is broken and I tired to weld a longer post on it to help support and line up the seat, no luck.
Seat 3 by Tim Brown, on Flickr  I could see welding the "L" to the frame to make it work...maybe.
I also think this hinge is bend and I know it is missing the two "C" clips to hold it in place.  Top post looks to not be sticking out far enough for a "C" clip to even work.
Seat 1 by Tim Brown, on Flickr
So if anyone can post a pic of what it should look like (a RS) under the seat, that would be great. 
As for the fuel pump, still no luck, hoping NAPA will have in Saturday.
I am also thinking of not putting the OEM front turn signals back on.  I have been reading that they tend to fall off on bumps and if they are bumped.  I will have to look at some flush mounted signals and then get some handle bar mirrors.  I tent to like those mirrors better anyway as I will be able to see behind me.