Another Scrambler project

[woodgeek]

K bike "C" bars fitted and gauge pod lowered by cutting an inch off the bottom of the mount and drilling new holes.



Mount is shown before I cut it and drilled the new holes.

[woodgeek]

You might be interested in one of prakash's posts concerning switch gear. Some sprucing-up of your old gear could bring you some bucks. In fact, you might be interested in the entire thread if you haven't seen it already.

I’m definitely going to reassemble my old switchgear and resell them. I wanted new but I’m sure someone else can use mine.

[woodgeek]

I found the leaks in the fuel tank. Now I need to prep the interior surface and order some Red Kote to take care of the pinholes and prevent future ones. If the pinholes are too large to coat over, I’ll repair the holes with JB Weld and then coat the inside of the tank.

[Laitch]

If the pinholes are too large to coat over . . .

What does that mean exactly? Coat over with paint?
RedKote or POR coatings will come with specific tank preparation instructions that must be followed scrupulously. Do your research before purchasing. You might find it easier to try the Chaos quick and dirty method, buy a used tank that's in good condition, or buy new old stock if you can find it.

[woodgeek]

What does that mean exactly? Coat over with paint?

I was using the term “coat” to refer to any tank sealer. Most of the tank sealers talk about repairing holes larger than 1/32” before application. Red Kote specifically states: “Any leaks larger than 1/32nd of an inch (1 mm) should be repaired by a professional who knows how to avoid an explosion while repairing a fuel tank. Soldering is the method usually used to repair leaks. Never use a torch on a fuel tank unless you have been properly trained.”

All tank treatments have reported failures. Most of those failures can be attributed to poor surface preparation.

[woodgeek]

“New” coils arrived today from Great Britain. :2thumbup:





One of my original coils measured as bad. 2.0 ohm primary with an open circuit secondary.

[Laitch]

Soldering is the method usually used to repair leaks. Never use a torch on a fuel tank unless you have been properly trained.”

Brazing or tig-welding an aluminum fuel tank is a specialist's skill. It shouldn't cost excessively to use a professional for that purpose. You might want to be certain another qualifying leak isn't about reveal itself though.

[woodgeek]

New Spal 30100402 fan installed to replace the original one. From the sound of it, the old one didn’t have too many miles left in it. I trimmed all mounting tabs and reinforcing ribs from the new fan frame and cut some slots in the old frame, allowing it to fit over the Spal frame.

[woodgeek]

Installed turn signals to replace the ones that didn’t come with my K. These are commonly available on eBay and the internet. They are usually branded as K&S or Bikemaster.

[Laitch]

Installed turn signals to replace the ones that didn’t come with my K.

It would be helpful for others if you explained what type they are and where you found them.

[woodgeek]

It would be helpful for others if you explained what type they are and where you found them.

I bought my signals from Dime City Cycles. I probably paid too much. I’ve seen them on eBay and through many other cycle shops. I drilled two holes in the tail section for the mounting screws. Self stick adhesive pads are included but I wouldn’t trust those. These are single filament so they can’t function as running/marker lights and turn signals.




The parts included are pictured below:

[woodgeek]

"New" Bosch orange post coils installed. Ready to be reconnected when the new plug wires arrive.




I repaired a piece of the tail section that was broken. After the JB Weld is fully cured, I will sand it down. The previous owner had removed the seat stay which let the seat hinge snap off a chunk of fiberglass. I still need to fill and smooth some other body blemishes with JB Weld in preparation for the new paint job. 

[Xjskins]

I had a bunch on pin holes in my tank. The cause was a ferrous fuel filter that had corroded into nothing that deposited flake in the bottom seam. Galvanic reaction did it thing over the course of 7 years sitting idle prior to my purchase.
Be sure to flush the tank of all these pieces prior to repair. I used a mix of h2o2 and alum for a couple days then strong vinegar for a couple days. Flushed with water then repaired.
I used a MAP gas torch and aluminum solder rods. It has held for 2 plus years without any worries of a tank lining failing.


Cheers
Rick

[woodgeek]

I had a bunch on pin holes in my tank. The cause was a ferrous fuel filter that had corroded into nothing that deposited flake in the bottom seam. Galvanic reaction did it thing over the course of 7 years sitting idle prior to my purchase.
Be sure to flush the tank of all these pieces prior to repair. I used a mix of h2o2 and alum for a couple days then strong vinegar for a couple days. Flushed with water then repaired.
I used a MAP gas torch and aluminum solder rods. It has held for 2 plus years without any worries of a tank lining failing.

Thank you for the tip Rick! Did you use the rods from the outside or the inside? I'm guessing the inside but didn't want to assume.

[Xjskins]

From the outside.


I should add that I used a Dremel tool to grind out all the bad metal. I then filled with the rod. If it was too proud I then ground it down some, leaving some filler in a layer around the patch.

[woodgeek]

Haven't had much time to work on anything so far this week.  More parts are arriving, waiting to be installed this weekend: spark plug wires, organic brake pads and some moly paste to do the final drive spline lube. This weekend I hope to reinstall the throttle bodies and work on repairing the fuel tank. I picked up a clean, complete K1100 side/centerstand on eBay for $55 shipped that will replace my existing collapse/rust prone unit.

[woodgeek]

Got my fuel pump rebuilt. It’s made using the shell of my original fuel pump, a Carter P74095 fuel pump that I got from Rockauto and a foam adapter from Euro motoelectrics. The Carter fuel pump is one that has been adapted before. I didn’t want to use fuel cell foam or hose to adapt it to fit within the hollowed out shell. I don’t trust any foam not to degrade in fuel, not even nitrile foam so I potted the whole thing in JB Weld. The fuel filter that comes with the carter will fit if you fold it a little. It’s a LOT tougher than the cheesy and fragile BMW pre filter. The failure of the BMW pre filter coupled with garbage in the tank is the doom of many K fuel pumps.

[Skunky]

New Spal fan installed to replace the original one. From the sound of it, the old one didn’t have too many miles left in it. I trimmed the mounting tabs from the new fan frame and cut some slots in the old frame, allowing it to fit over the Spal frame.

Looked nice and neat and inspired me to replace my Fan. Should be able to hide the horns behind it too.  :clap:

[woodgeek]

Looked nice and neat and inspired me to replace my Fan. Should be able to hide the horns behind it too.  :clap:

Glad my post could inspire you. Hopefully others can learn from me as I follow in the footsteps of giants. [emoji106]

[woodgeek]

Throttle bodies are reinstalled with fresh rubber. That fuel rail needs some fresh paint before I install the injectors and fuel lines.

[woodgeek]

Rebuilt front calipers installed. After I took these pics I noticed those dry pins. So, I put a dab of moly paste on them where the spring contacts and gave the pins a spin with some needle nose pliers to spread the grease around. It doesn’t take a lot, you just don’t want dry pins with metal on metal contact.

[woodgeek]

Paint prep.

[woodgeek]

“New” centerstand ready to install.

[woodgeek]

Up on the lift and ready for more work.

[lmiklosy]

I'm curious, have you looked at the cylinder bores already?   What do the bores in a motor sitting 18 years look like?