Clicking Sound

[Laitch]

Check the location in Reply #11 using the screwdriver like Martin suggests. Remove the coil cover and run the bike in the dark to find sparks discharging from bad wires or loose connections. Remove the spark plug cover and check that the plug wires are firmly connected to the plugs and their wires are not randomly discharging spark either.

[JohnG_68]

I’ve already done a spark test and everything’s proper. The click came from the cylinder heads I’m pretty sure


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[Martin]

John get a long handled large screwdriver, put the handle to your ear, left or right it does not matter. Put the blade of the screw driver on the start of the engine cover, move the screwdriver along the cover.  The clicking sound will get louder as you narrow down the location.
Regards Martin.

[JohnG_68]

Ok so I thought I found the clicking inside the cylinder head cover. I took them out and checked em. Put it back together and it wouldn’t start. I thought I tightened the caps too tight but got a torque wrench and retightened. I don’t think I changed anything but it won’t start...




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[Laitch]

I don’t think I changed anything but it won’t start...

What is the battery's resting voltage?

[JohnG_68]

What is the battery's resting voltage?

I can re-check but the resting voltage is around 11


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[Martin]

Battery voltage way too low. You need to either charge it or if it won't take a charge replace the battery.
Regards Martin.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

There seems to be some sort of planetary alignment that is killing a lot of batteries lately...

...a voltopalypse...

[lmiklosy]

Hope JohnG doesn't have ABS.....

[rbm]

There seems to be some sort of planetary alignment that is killing a lot of batteries lately...

...a voltopalypse...

Yeah Gryph!  I had the same observation.  Last year, the planets aligned in a way to cause numerous fuel sender failures.  And the year before that, it was starter relays.


@Johng_68:  In this thread and the other one, you stated you removed and replaced the cam shaft, but were non-specific as to the process you followed.  From the video, it's apparent the cam chain cover was not touched, so you might have upset the valve timing.  I'd try to carefully rotate the engine by hand to verify that there is no interference throughout the engine cycle.  The process to follow:

• Remove all spark plugs
• You will notice a hex-shaped milling on the left end of the cam shafts beside the timing chain sprockets.  Using a 17mm open-end wrench, engage the intake cam on this hex milling.
• Rotate the engine by turning the cam shaft COUNTER-CLOCKWISE as viewed from the front of the bike (push the open-end wrench towards the ceiling, not the floor)
• Repeat until the engine has gone through all four cycles at least once.  Try to sense any interference between valves and pistons during this process.

The BMW OEM manual for the K75 is available for download from this site.

[JohnG_68]

Yeah Gryph!  I had the same observation.  Last year, the planets aligned in a way to cause numerous fuel sender failures.  And the year before that, it was starter relays.


@Johng_68:  In this thread and the other one, you stated you removed and replaced the cam shaft, but were non-specific as to the process you followed.  From the video, it's apparent the cam chain cover was not touched, so you might have upset the valve timing.  I'd try to carefully rotate the engine by hand to verify that there is no interference throughout the engine cycle.  The process to follow:

• Remove all spark plugs
• You will notice a hex-shaped milling on the left end of the cam shafts beside the timing chain sprockets.  Using a 17mm open-end wrench, engage the intake cam on this hex milling.
• Rotate the engine by turning the cam shaft COUNTER-CLOCKWISE as viewed from the front of the bike (push the open-end wrench towards the ceiling, not the floor)
• Repeat until the engine has gone through all four cycles at least once.  Try to sense any interference between valves and pistons during this process.

The BMW OEM manual for the K75 is available for download from this site.

You’re correct about not removing the cam chain cover. I got the plugs out and am trying to turn the shafts but they won’t budge. The bike is in neutral if that matters. What arn’t I doing...


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[rbm]

It's an interference engine so probably you're a tooth out on the timing chain, meaning the pistons are hitting the valves.  Time to dismantle the engine and do the cam shafts correctly.

[Martin]

+1 do not force it.
Regards Martin.

[JohnG_68]

It's an interference engine so probably you're a tooth out on the timing chain, meaning the pistons are hitting the valves.  Time to dismantle the engine and do the cam shafts correctly.

Oh boy... so a full disassembly... I know how to take it apart but what am I to change once it’s in pieces? Any guides out there?


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[JohnG_68]

Oh boy... so a full disassembly... I know how to take it apart but what am I to change once it’s in pieces? Any guides out there?


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Are there timing marks I could utilize so I don’t have to disassemble everything?


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[rbm]

I provided a link to the OEM service manual a couple of posts back. Your second best guide after the OEM manual is a real life paper-based copy of the Clymers manual.There is also a softcopy of the Haynes manual available over on the K100-forum download section but that's your third choice; there are tons of errors in that manual.

Timing marks are on the cam sprockets but you really have to follow the factory procedure to get it right, sorry.

[JohnG_68]

I provided a link to the OEM service manual a couple of posts back. Your second best guide after the OEM manual is a real life paper-based copy of the Clymers manual.There is also a softcopy of the Haynes manual available over on the K100-forum download section but that's your third choice; there are tons of errors in that manual.

Timing marks are on the cam sprockets but you really have to follow the factory procedure to get it right, sorry.

Could this have been the clicking noise from before after I had a rather gentle crash. It sounded like metal clacking from inside the cylinder head cover. And what specifically am I looking to redo or realign? What’s the key phrase


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[rbm]

Download the OEM manual and familiarize yourself with the process that you're going to follow.  It starts on Page 11-79.0 and ends on page 11.82.0.  You'll be required to remove the frame and driveline from the motor and get the motor on the bench.  Remove the cam chain cover will be part of the process, which will also involve removing the HES assembly.  The process is tersely described in the OEM manual and it assumes a certain familiarity with the engine.  That's where the Clymer's comes in handy. It is more verbose in its description of the process.  Starting in Chapter 4 on page 89, it goes into excruciating detail on the disassembly, setting and validation of the cam timing.


I've not done with procedure myself, so I'm probably not the best source for detailed information. If I could have been that resource for you, I probably could have offered additional diagnosis information to you to help you determine the cause of the clicking in the first place. But I wasn't so I didn't.  I'm more of an electrical guy than a mechanical guy, but there are numerous individuals on this site with the experience you'll need to tap into.  Again, sorry that I can't be the knowledge resource you hope for.

[Laitch]

I got the plugs out and am trying to turn the shafts but they won’t budge. The bike is in neutral if that matters. What arn’t I doing...

Describe exactly how you are trying to rotate the camshafts. Robert has already described the process in this thread but maybe you need some more clarity.

If it comes down to reassembly, I like the Haynes manual description of assembling and timing the camshafts, compliments of BSK Speedworks UK.

[The Mighty Gryphon]

GOOD NEWS!!!

You do not need to disassemble the engine anymore beyond removing the valve cover and the timing chain cover on th ront of the engine to correctly time the valves.  This can all be done with the engine still in the frame.  I have done this three times, so I know what is required.  Besides changing the chain, the procedure is required to change shims on 4 valve engines because you need to remove the cams.

What you want to do is look for the procedure for replacing the timing chain.  You aren't replacing the chain, but the procedure for putting it all together involves timing the valves.  It's fairly simple, just time consuming(It will probably take you a whole day if you are unfamiliar with the engine, and I suspect you are).